Backlash on a Corsair 300 Bass fly Fishing guides
Question:
I’m going to jump in here.Bass fly Fishing guides Since a decent rod is fairly inexpensive now days, you should junk anything under six feet. And no, do not go to a seven foot rod. Get a decent six foot rod. A good medium six foot rod is a general type of rod. Most 6′-6″ and 7′-0″ rods are more specialized. If you’re just starting out, set all the brakes to on.Bass fly Fishing guides Hold the rod, with the lore on it at 45degrees and engage the cast control. Turn it down so that the lure doesn’t fall. To cast, you should bring the rod back to about 10 o’clock and release at about 2 o’clock. A good beginning technique is to begin the cast with the reel handle facing you and turn your wrist as you finish. Buy inexpensive line to learn on, Bass fly Fishing guides and change it when it become a birds nest. Try to cast a short to medium distance and when this becomes normal, then move up. Try crawling before running, it works. I’ve been using a baitcaster since last year, and it’s taken me two seasons to get really comfortable. Be wary of the experts, they’re going to be telling you how they take all the brakes off, turn the sensitivity down to zero so the lore drops like a rock, and cast the length of a football field with a 1/16oz jig head (a lot of times, even into the wind.)Bass fly Fishing guides I guess in time, you and I will learn how to do that too. Just now, try to get past a day with no bad tangles in your line.
Response:
Gary, I wasn’t aware that you could just set one or two of these..Bass fly Fishing guides. thats news to me… I’ll try fiddlin’ with the breaks.
You generally want to keep even brake pressure, so with a Corsair, you would use 0, 2 or 4. I’ve been know to cheat and use uneven brake patterns (1 or 3) but I’d never own up to it in public
Another question, is the length of the rod important in the control? Maybe I was misunderstood into thinking the shorter the rod, the more accuracy you get..Bass fly Fishing guides. Should I jump to a 7 footer?
I think what is important is balance, it has to feel good to you. That means the rod, reel, line and lure should feel like they belong together to you. When it is all balanced to you, the accuracy and distance will be there. To me, a Corsair is a heavy duty reel. Something that feels good on a 6′6″ to 7′ medium-heavy to heavy rod. I like 17 lb mono on mine.Bass fly Fishing guides Rods that are 5 feet in length tend to be in the medium-lite to medium range, and I’d be thinking 8 lb mono and tossing light lures a little ways. I wouldn’t use a Corsair in that application. Getting things to feel just right isn’t easy, I’m about to swap out 3 rods because they don’t feel right to me. As far as a 7 footer goes, I use them for worming and flipping. Since I only use mono and mono has a little give to it, I use a 7 footer for worming because it takes up slack quickly and makes setting the hook easier. For flipping, you use as long as a rod as you can because the rod length and your arm length determine the distance of your casting. And to answer you last question, I’ve only been baitcasting about a year. I’m new to it.Bass fly Fishing guides (My life before was trout with a spinning reel–I’m completely a Bass fisherman now and I’ve been making adjustments all over the place…) is when I get these backlashes, mostly at the END of the cast, could it be that the line has too much memory? I’ve noticed that when I get these backlashes, it’s typically a 5 minute procedure to untangle, but thats when I notice the memory on the line… I was thinking that the memory could be jamming up the process of the cast (and the memory is usually deep in the spool, hence a long cast).
If the backlash occurs at the end of the cast, tighten the knurl knob up a little bit more until the lure just stops, instead of letting it slowly drop. One thing to keep in mind is you can set up your brakes and tension controls until they are set just right and you can still get bird’s nests.Bass fly Fishing guides The reason for this is the spool is still spinning and the lure has stopped pulling out line. This happens for many reasons. First, a gust on wind decided your lure isn’t going any further. Second, your lure hits something – tree, wall, shore or your fishing buddy. Third, you just put too much energy into your cast. And finally, your thumb is asleep or lazy. With a good cast, you put just enough energy into the lure to have it stop where you wanted it to stop. In other words, the brakes are such that they will stop the lure when you want it to stop. In some situations, we impart more energy into the lure than is necessary, so we use our thumb to take it out.Bass fly Fishing guides In other words, our thumb becomes a brake. If you are getting bad backlashes at the end of your casts, you are putting too much into the cast and you need to get that thumb involved. Since you have been using a baitcaster for one year which is a half year because you are from Massachusetts where you do that winter thing, you only have about one more year to go before your thumb gets its degree
As far as line goes, you need a quality line. That doesn’t mean the most expensive line. I’ve tried most of them and I mainly use Silver Thread. I buy it on the big spools so it is really pretty cheap. It has all the properties I like in a line. I use it up to 12 lb and then I switch over to McCoy’s Mean Green which is a little more expensive.Bass fly Fishing guides Also don’t respool the whole spool on the Corsair. You could go in the poor house quick respooling that sucker. Just replace the last 50 – 75 yards. Remember your blood knot.
Response:
Gary, I wasn’t aware that you could just set one or two of these..Bass fly Fishing guides. thats news to me… I’ll try fiddlin’ with the breaks. You generally want to keep even brake pressure, so with a Corsair, you would use 0, 2 or 4. I’ve been know to cheat and use uneven brake patterns (1 or 3) but I’d never own up to it in public
All of mine are “out”… and it does feel “comfortable”. I might consider cheating if all else fails. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Another question, is the length of the rod important in the control? Maybe I was misunderstood into thinking the shorter the rod, the more accuracy you get… Should I jump to a 7 footer? I think what is important is balance, it has to feel good to you. That means the rod, reel, line and lure should feel like they belong together to you. When it is all balanced to you, the accuracy and distance will be there. To me, a Corsair is a heavy duty reel. Something that feels good on a 6′6″ to 7′ medium-heavy to heavy rod. I like 17 lb mono on mine. Rods that are 5 feet in length tend to be in the medium-lite to medium range, and I’d be thinking 8 lb mono and tossing light lures a little ways. I wouldn’t use a Corsair in that application. Getting things to feel just right isn’t easy, I’m about to swap out 3 rods because they don’t feel right to me.
I’m actually concerned about the rod length. It “seems” small… When I bought it, I didn’t dawn on me, I was more concerned about action and quality. So, I’m thinking of moving over to an Ugly Stick or something with a larger length, and even a heavier play. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -As far as a 7 footer goes, I use them for worming and flipping. Since I only use mono and mono has a little give to it, I use a 7 footer for worming because it takes up slack quickly and makes setting the hook easier. For flipping, you use as long as a rod as you can because the rod length and your arm length determine the distance of your casting. And to answer you last question, I’ve only been baitcasting about a year. I’m new to it. (My life before was trout with a spinning reel–I’m completely a Bass fisherman now and I’ve been making adjustments all over the place…) is when I get these backlashes, mostly at the END of the cast, could it be that the line has too much memory? I’ve noticed that when I get these backlashes, it’s typically a 5 minute procedure to untangle, but thats when I notice the memory on the line… I was thinking that the memory could be jamming up the process of the cast (and the memory is usually deep in the spool, hence a long cast). If the backlash occurs at the end of the cast, tighten the knurl knob up a little bit more until the lure just stops, instead of letting it slowly
drop. I’ll try that, but I think your right about the wind and the lure weight… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -One thing to keep in mind is you can set up your brakes and tension controls until they are set just right and you can still get bird’s nests. The reason for this is the spool is still spinning and the lure has stopped pulling out line. This happens for many reasons. First, a gust on wind decided your lure isn’t going any further. Second, your lure hits something – tree, wall, shore or your fishing buddy. Third, you just put too much energy into your cast. And finally, your thumb is asleep or lazy. With a good cast, you put just enough energy into the lure to have it stop where you wanted it to stop. In other words, the brakes are such that they will stop the lure when you want it to stop. In some situations, we impart more energy into the lure than is necessary, so we use our thumb to take it out. In other words, our thumb becomes a brake. If you are getting bad backlashes at the end of your casts, you are putting too much into the cast and you need to get that thumb involved. Since you have been using a baitcaster for one year which is a half year because you are from Massachusetts where you do that winter thing, you only have about one more year to go before your thumb gets its degree
As far as line goes, you need a quality line. That doesn’t mean the most expensive line. I’ve tried most of them and I mainly use Silver Thread. I buy it on the big spools so it is really pretty cheap. It has all the properties I like in a line. I use it up to 12 lb and then I switch over to McCoy’s Mean Green which is a little more expensive. Also don’t respool the whole spool on the Corsair. You could go in the poor house quick respooling that sucker. Just replace the last 50 – 75 yards. Remember your blood knot.
My spool is pretty thin actually, it’s not 100% up… Richard
Thanks for all the advice… Gary
Response:
Thanks for the input. I’ve heard a lot of people learning a baitcast say the same things you have. The Pro’s are a little disturbing. Part of me loves watching The Bassmasters, and the other part of me hates it cause they make it look SO damn easy. One thing I’ve also got to become more aware of (as Richard pointed out), is the amount of energy I put into the cast. I think I do try to slam it out there and thats where it’s become a problem–backlash city. I’d say that I’m about 80% successful with having a good cast. It’s that 20% that pisses me off where I don’t get to fish… Incidently, it happened to me this morning… But this time when I was fixing a backlash a bass decided that he liked my bubble gum worm sittin’ out on that lilly pad… Much to my shagrin, I would have like to catch him but I had the spool out of the socket and was untangling!!! A baitcasters worse nightmare… That was the 20% of the time that I’d like to fix. Thanks for the help. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to jump in here. Since a decent rod is fairly inexpensive now days, you should junk anything under six feet. And no, do not go to a seven foot rod. Get a decent six foot rod. A good medium six foot rod is a general type of rod. Most 6′-6″ and 7′-0″ rods are more specialized. If you’re just starting out, set all the brakes to on. Hold the rod, with the lore on it at 45degrees and engage the cast control. Turn it down so that the lure doesn’t fall. To cast, you should bring the rod back to about 10 o’clock and release at about 2 o’clock. A good beginning technique is to begin the cast with the reel handle facing you and turn your wrist as you finish. Buy inexpensive line to learn on, and change it when it become a birds nest. Try to cast a short to medium distance and when this becomes normal, then move up. Try crawling before running, it works. I’ve been using a baitcaster since last year, and it’s taken me two seasons to get really comfortable. Be wary of the experts, they’re going to be telling you how they take all the brakes off, turn the sensitivity down to zero so the lore drops like a rock, and cast the length of a football field with a 1/16oz jig head (a lot of times, even into the wind.) I guess in time, you and I will learn how to do that too. Just now, try to get past a day with no bad tangles in your line.
Response:
Gary, I have a Corsair 300 with 12 pound green Stren. My Flippin’ stick is a short 5 ft. Medium graphite Daiwa… The problem I’m running into on long casts (over 20 yards), is that I get a pretty good backlash almost ALL the time. I’ve tried tighting the brake, reducing the height of the cast etc… Nothing seems to work–My brother in-law is starting to call me the “backlash master”… Help!
I have a Corsair 300 with 17 lb line on a 7 foot heavy rod and I don’t think I’ve ever gotten a backlash with the set-up. I use it to toss Carolina rigs across the lake. When you say, “tightening the brake,” that makes me nervous. The Corsair 300 has mechanical brakes that can be click-on or click-off. These brakes are located under the cover on the side opposite of the crank-em-in handle. To get at the brakes, you loosen the two raised knurled screws on the handle side and pull out the spool. There are four click-on / click-off brake shoes attached to the far end of the spool. For long-distance casting, I would suggest you click all four of them on. If you are using you rig as a pitching rig, then you might want to go with two. The plastic knurled knob next to the crank-em-in handle is a spool tension control. The way to set it is to put you lure on the line, hold the rod out in front of you, put the cast button and let the lure drop. Then tighten the tension control knob until the lure just barely drops. If you have been using a baitcaster for a while, you might notice with your thumb that some backlashes occur at the beginning of the cast and some backlashes occur at the end of the cast. For backlashes that occur early, you click-on more brakes; for backlashes that occur late, you add a wee bit more tension. If you are still getting backlashes after doing all these fine things, you might want to decrease the amount of line on your spool. If you decrease the amount of line on the spool, the spool will spin faster and generate more braking power. I can see filling the spool on a Corsair 300 so it was down about 3/16th of an inch from the spool lip. One last bit of advice, don’t try to use the Corsair 300 as a finesse rig, it won’t work. Make sure you throw stuff in the 3/8 oz and heavier range. Richard
Response:
The problem I’m running into on long casts (over 20 yards), is that I get a pretty good backlash almost ALL the time. I’ve tried tighting the brake, reducing the height of the cast etc… Nothing seems to work–My brother in-law is starting to call me the “backlash master”… Help!
I’d like to add to Richard’s very good advice: If you’re plunking your lures into the water short, what my buddy would call, “Trying to knock them out”, then you’re going to get killer backlash unless you’ve got a very quick thumb. Maybe my Ambassadeur 3600 is just real sweet, but I can fling a lure pretty much 40 or 50 yards (something like a spook) and have the lure at the limit of it’s distance, so the spool is going so slow when it hits the water that I don’t really need thumb. Now if I try this with my Daiwa, it’s backlash city. Check your casting technique and make sure you’re not short casting. Marcus Ward 505 US 7569 – International 505 Class Yacht Racing Association Central Missouri State University – Department of Psychology http://www.throb.net/mward/
Response:
Thanks Richard. Yes, I’m aware of the internal brake settings. I believe mine are all “on”, pushed “out”. I wasn’t aware that you could just set one or two of these… thats news to me… I’ll try fiddlin’ with the breaks. Also, I’m aware of the tension adjustment, and that seems to be OK… If I put say a spook on–I let it out jus enough to have it drop slowly… so that works ok. I think after reading what you wrote about the rod size. I might just have the “WRONG” rod. It’s a 5 ft rod, made for baitcasting, but it’s short and when I cast, I’m using a side arm approach (just habit I guess), I haven’t really gotten to the point where I’m good at rearing it over the head with a baitcast. Another question, is the length of the rod important in the control? Maybe I was misunderstood into thinking the shorter the rod, the more accuracy you get… Should I jump to a 7 footer? And to answer you last question, I’ve only been baitcasting about a year. I’m new to it. (My life before was trout with a spinning reel–I’m completely a Bass fisherman now and I’ve been making adjustments all over the place…) is when I get these backlashes, mostly at the END of the cast, could it be that the line has too much memory? I’ve noticed that when I get these backlashes, it’s typically a 5 minute procedure to untangle, but thats when I notice the memory on the line… I was thinking that the memory could be jamming up the process of the cast (and the memory is usually deep in the spool, hence a long cast). Thanks everyone for you help… happy fishing, Gary By the way, I envy all you southern people. Bass fishin in the Massachusetts (eastern) is quite a challenge compared to the south… Somedays I wonder if Bass really exist up here.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Gary, I have a Corsair 300 with 12 pound green Stren. My Flippin’ stick is a short 5 ft. Medium graphite Daiwa… The problem I’m running into on long casts (over 20 yards), is that I get a pretty good backlash almost ALL the time. I’ve tried tighting the brake, reducing the height of the cast etc… Nothing seems to work–My brother in-law is starting to call me the “backlash master”… Help! I have a Corsair 300 with 17 lb line on a 7 foot heavy rod and I don’t think I’ve ever gotten a backlash with the set-up. I use it to toss Carolina rigs across the lake. When you say, “tightening the brake,” that makes me nervous. The Corsair 300 has mechanical brakes that can be click-on or click-off. These brakes are located under the cover on the side opposite of the crank-em-in handle. To get at the brakes, you loosen the two raised knurled screws on the handle side and pull out the spool. There are four click-on / click-off brake shoes attached to the far end of the spool. For long-distance casting, I would suggest you click all four of them on. If you are using you rig as a pitching rig, then you might want to go with two. The plastic knurled knob next to the crank-em-in handle is a spool tension control. The way to set it is to put you lure on the line, hold the rod out in front of you, put the cast button and let the lure drop. Then tighten the tension control knob until the lure just barely drops. If you have been using a baitcaster for a while, you might notice with your thumb that some backlashes occur at the beginning of the cast and some backlashes occur at the end of the cast. For backlashes that occur early, you click-on more brakes; for backlashes that occur late, you add a wee bit more tension. If you are still getting backlashes after doing all these fine things, you might want to decrease the amount of line on your spool. If you decrease the amount of line on the spool, the spool will spin faster and generate more braking power. I can see filling the spool on a Corsair 300 so it was down about 3/16th of an inch from the spool lip. One last bit of advice, don’t try to use the Corsair 300 as a finesse rig, it won’t work. Make sure you throw stuff in the 3/8 oz and heavier range. Richard
Response:
can you give me an example of the difference between a “short cast” and a what a long cast would be? I’m typically a side-arm caster (being that my boat is 12 ft. and I’m usually in it with another person). Also, I’m aware of the Ambassadeur (is this the anti-backlash systtem?), I’m considering getting this reel. I like the Corsiar, but the drag ALWAYS seems to change, and I’m not real happy with the plastic parts for the controls. Can anyone recommend a good baitcast rod say under 100 bucks? Something good for close to short (flippin’), and something good for making a 20-40 yard cast? I guess an “all purpose” rod… Gary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The problem I’m running into on long casts (over 20 yards), is that I get a pretty good backlash almost ALL the time. I’ve tried tighting the brake, reducing the height of the cast etc… Nothing seems to work–My brother in-law is starting to call me the “backlash master”… Help! I’d like to add to Richard’s very good advice: If you’re plunking your lures into the water short, what my buddy would call, “Trying to knock them out”, then you’re going to get killer backlash unless you’ve got a very quick thumb. Maybe my Ambassadeur 3600 is just real sweet, but I can fling a lure pretty much 40 or 50 yards (something like a spook) and have the lure at the limit of it’s distance, so the spool is going so slow when it hits the water that I don’t really need thumb. Now if I try this with my Daiwa, it’s backlash city. Check your casting technique and make sure you’re not short casting. * Marcus Ward 505 US 7569 – International 505 Class Yacht Racing Association Central Missouri State University – Department of Psychology http://www.throb.net/mward/
Response:
I have a Corsair 300 with 12 pound green Stren. My Flippin’ stick is a short 5 ft. Medium graphite Daiwa… The problem I’m running into on long casts (over 20 yards), is that I get a pretty good backlash almost ALL the time. I’ve tried tighting the brake, reducing the height of the cast etc… Nothing seems to work–My brother in-law is starting to call me the “backlash master”… Help! Gary
Response:
I’ve been learning a Shakespeare Intrepid Baitcaster since Spring. Here’s tips I’ve learned and people have posted to me: -A 6 foot Medium/Heavy pole, with 6 ringlets is almost mandatory for bass and long casts. -Keep the spool full of line. -THUMB THE REEL! -When you see the lure ready to hit the water, apply pressure to the spool with your thumb. -Adjust the brake every time you put on a new lure or bait so that when it drops the line’s not unraveling. -I have better luck with ’side-arm’ casts and ‘pitch’ casts then ‘overhead’ casts-this may or may not help you. -Practice-practice-practice-practice-practice-practice….go to a lame fishing hole where nobody’s around and cast like a madman…it’s actually quite fun if you’ve had a stressful day. One other tip that I haven’t tried: A guy told me to help his kid learn, he unspolled about 30 yards of line, put a piece of tape across the line and rewound it back to reduce the backlashes. Baitcasters aren’t for everybody, although it is almost an art to learn and that’s where the fun is…and heck you can even catch fish with them too!
) Jim
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