Question:

Any of you remember a bass tracker for sale a couple of months ago?? The 1980 model, 50 Merc, fly fiching Bass Tracker etc.  It sold for $3600.  A fisherman came and looked at it, did a little research and bought it about a week later.  I told you, seeing was believing. fly fiching Bass Tracker I’m glad we didn’t take most of the advice that was given and lower the price to about $1500-$2000.

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I’m glad we didn’t take most of the advice that was given and lower the price to about $1500-$2000.fly fiching Bass Tracker  Just goes to show that perserverance pays. I too had an older boat for sale. I waited until the right person came along. He got a nice little boat at a price he could live with. I got the price  I was lookin for. P.S. The best time to advertise a boat for sale. Starting in Feb. the worst time is Oct. , obvious reasons.

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Well, that’s great to hear,fly fiching Bass Tracker I paid $3000 for a  91 Pro17 Tracker two years ago, guess I did pretty good. Looks like I’ll be able to sell mine for more than I paid.

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I know if you keep that canvas cover in good shape you will !   Well, that’s great to hear, I paid $3000 for a  91 Pro17 Tracker two years ago, guess I did pretty good. Looks like I’ll be able to sell mine for more than I paid.

To reply remove “.net” from our address.

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I know if you keep that canvas cover in good shape you will !

LOL, ha..plenty of fireline left for mending.

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Well I guess I did good just a week ago when I bought a 1993 TX-17 for $1400 with a 40 HP Johnson!!

Response:

16′ Aluminum Bass Tracker in excellent condition for sale.  1980 model bought new, 1 owner.  Comes with trailer, 50 mercury, Minn Kota trolling motor, Fish Finder, etc.  Asking $3,900.

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Kind of high for a 18 year old boat don’t you think. You can get a new one for 6000 and a year later it would be worth 3000. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 16′ Aluminum Bass Tracker in excellent condition for sale.  1980 model bought new, 1 owner.  Comes with trailer, 50 mercury, Minn Kota trolling motor, Fish Finder, etc.  Asking $3,900.

Response:

It might depreciate that much if you run it up on the bank a few times. This boat is in excellent condn’ and is carrying new equipment.

Response:

16′ Aluminum Bass Tracker in excellent condition for sale.  1980 model bought new, 1 owner.  Comes with trailer, 50 mercury, Minn Kota trolling motor, Fish Finder, etc.  Asking $3,900.

TOO HIGH!! I bought a 1991 Pro17 for $3000 a couple of years ago.

Response:

It might depreciate that much if you run it up on the bank a few times. This boat is in excellent condn’ and is carrying new equipment.

STILL TOO HIGH!! you’re looking at $1500-$1700 for that boat and not a penny more…new equipment or not.

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I’ve seen 1980-85 models priced anywhere from $2000-$4500.  Gotta see this one to appreciate it.

Response:

| I’ve seen 1980-85 models priced anywhere from $2000-$4500.  Gotta see | this one to appreciate it. | It depends on the area demand. When I was shopping around a year ago, this would be an appropriate price if the boat is in good shape. Every aluminum boat I called on was sold as soon as it hit the Trader. This is in the Southeast (Atlanta region). The 50 Horsepower motor kicks the price up a notch since most boats in this genre have 25 hp motors. The new boat ads kick the price up 2-3000$ going from a 25 to a 50 hp. The nice thing about aluminum is that what you see is what you get. There are no wooden struts to rot out in hidden places. Good luck on your sale.

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Question:

I’m considering bass texas fly a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?bass texas fly  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

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I had an aluminum and now have a fiberglass boat. I miss the ease of launching the old aluminum. bass texas fly I could put it in anywhere. Now I have to look for ramps where there is a dock to tie up to so I won’t scratch the bottom up. If I ever buy another one, I will go back to the aluminum. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?bass texas fly   Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

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I have an bass tracker 17 1/2 aluminum and I love it.bass texas fly  I can glide thru on less than 18 inches of water, tougher than nails.  you don’t have to worry if you bump a stump or two. the ease of launching and towing,and my main reason in the 1st place price,price and that’s right price.

bass texas flyI’m considering a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

Response:

Depends on where you are fishing and what you want from a boat. If you normally fish lakes that get real windy with a lot of chop I wouldn’t even consider the aluminum. Fiberglass boats are heavier which makes them less affected by wind when running the trolling motor, but they are more money. Just look at all your options and make a careful well-researched decision. Mike

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m considering a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

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I had an aluminum and now have a fiberglass boat. I miss the ease of launching the old aluminum. I could put it in anywhere. Now I have to look for ramps where there is a dock to tie up to so I won’t scratch the bottom up. If I ever buy another one, I will go back to the aluminum.

Mark, look into a KeelGuard.  They’re for sale in BassPro and Cabela’s. I’ve had them on my last two glass boats and they really work.  I beach my boat all the time without damaging the hull. –

Response:

I’m considering a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

Fisher makes a fine boat.  I’ve looked at them and I like the layout of the boat and they appear to be well made.  However, I’m running a glass boat for several reasons. A well made fiberglass hull is more efficient in getting up on plane and better handling once there.  Fiberglass can be molded and contoured into any shape desired, helping the efficiency.  Aluminum can only be bent so many ways. There are no welds or rivets to work loose on glass hulls.  Should there be damage to a glass hull, any auto body shop can make the repairs.  Try to find someone that can weld aluminum decently, there aren’t any places in the Rhinelander area that can. Check the hull weight on aluminum boats versus glass boats.  Most glass boats being made today are made with composite materials, reducing the weight.  Aluminum boats, once the decks, rodlockers, etc are added are not that much lighter.  Maybe if you’re comparing a 16′ aluminum rowboat to a 16′ bassboat, there’s a substantial difference but I’ll bet you’ll be surprised at how minimal these actual differences are.  A friend of mine has a 17′ aluminum Crestliner fishing boat that actually weighed 300 pounds more than my 17′ Tuffy glass boat. If you fish in colder climates like I do, aluminum boats conduct cold from the water like you wouldn’t believe.  Glass boats are warmer feeling when fishing cold weather. I like the way that glass boats handle, they seem to carve out turns better, with little side skipping like my aluminum boat did. I could go on and on with this subject but in the interest of not boring you, I won’t .  There are pros and cons to both materials, however I think that you should look at fiberglass again, taking these points into consideration. –

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The KeelGuards are cheap and won’t last that long. Get a Hamby’s instead! Mike

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had an aluminum and now have a fiberglass boat. I miss the ease of launching the old aluminum. I could put it in anywhere. Now I have to look for ramps where there is a dock to tie up to so I won’t scratch the bottom up. If I ever buy another one, I will go back to the aluminum. Mark, look into a KeelGuard.  They’re for sale in BassPro and Cabela’s. I’ve had them on my last two glass boats and they really work.  I beach my boat all the time without damaging the hull. –

Response:

Now you guys got me really confused.

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m considering a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum? Fisher makes a fine boat.  I’ve looked at them and I like the layout of the boat and they appear to be well made.  However, I’m running a glass boat for several reasons. A well made fiberglass hull is more efficient in getting up on plane and better handling once there.  Fiberglass can be molded and contoured into any shape desired, helping the efficiency.  Aluminum can only be bent so many ways. There are no welds or rivets to work loose on glass hulls.  Should there be damage to a glass hull, any auto body shop can make the repairs.  Try to find someone that can weld aluminum decently, there aren’t any places in the Rhinelander area that can. Check the hull weight on aluminum boats versus glass boats.  Most glass boats being made today are made with composite materials, reducing the weight.  Aluminum boats, once the decks, rodlockers, etc are added are not that much lighter.  Maybe if you’re comparing a 16′ aluminum rowboat to a 16′ bassboat, there’s a substantial difference but I’ll bet you’ll be surprised at how minimal these actual differences are.  A friend of mine has a 17′ aluminum Crestliner fishing boat that actually weighed 300 pounds more than my 17′ Tuffy glass boat. If you fish in colder climates like I do, aluminum boats conduct cold from the water like you wouldn’t believe.  Glass boats are warmer feeling when fishing cold weather. I like the way that glass boats handle, they seem to carve out turns better, with little side skipping like my aluminum boat did. I could go on and on with this subject but in the interest of not boring you, I won’t .  There are pros and cons to both materials, however I think that you should look at fiberglass again, taking these points into consideration. –

Response:

It’s quite simple actually.  Talk to fishing friends, find out what they like and dislike about their boats.  Look at the different models, compare layouts, features, benefits, warranties, dealer support, get references. Narrow your choices down to a couple that you like.  Test drive the boats, hopefully under some adverse conditions, windy, large waves or big wakes if the weather won’t cooperate.  Compare ride, handling, do you get wet, etc. Try to picture all your gear in the boat, along with your overweight brother in law and see if there’s still enough room.    If after all of this, if you still like the boat, buy it. Don’t get all hung up on hull materials.  There are good aluminum boats out there.  Lund, Crestliner, Fisher are some of the better ones, I’m sure that someone else will add to the list.  But don’t overlook fiberglass because it scratches.  Big deal, scratches add character.  Most can be rubbed out anyway, deeper ones can be repaired with a gel coat kit.  I fish some really nasty areas, launching my glass boat on mostly unimproved landings without docks and my boat looks pretty darned good. Go with your gut, what do you want?  After all, it’s a sizeable investment you’re making and you’d better be happy with it. –

Response:

Good advice Steve! Mike

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s quite simple actually.  Talk to fishing friends, find out what they like and dislike about their boats.  Look at the different models, compare layouts, features, benefits, warranties, dealer support, get references. Narrow your choices down to a couple that you like.  Test drive the boats, hopefully under some adverse conditions, windy, large waves or big wakes if the weather won’t cooperate.  Compare ride, handling, do you get wet, etc. Try to picture all your gear in the boat, along with your overweight brother in law and see if there’s still enough room.    If after all of this, if you still like the boat, buy it. Don’t get all hung up on hull materials.  There are good aluminum boats out there.  Lund, Crestliner, Fisher are some of the better ones, I’m sure that someone else will add to the list.  But don’t overlook fiberglass because it scratches.  Big deal, scratches add character.  Most can be rubbed out anyway, deeper ones can be repaired with a gel coat kit.  I fish some really nasty areas, launching my glass boat on mostly unimproved landings without docks and my boat looks pretty darned good. Go with your gut, what do you want?  After all, it’s a sizeable investment you’re making and you’d better be happy with it. –

Response:

Now you guys got me really confused.

Here’s how I see it. Every boat is a compromise in some way. Aluminum compromises ride and handling. That is, unless you get one of the high end aluminum boats. Then the price tag says that you could have gotten fiberglass. If you go with a mid range aluminum, 10-12 grand, you’ll have a fine boat that will do many things well. But, for about the same price, you could get a nice used fiberblass boat. All you need to do is learn how to avoid buying a “lemon” and be patient. A good deal will come around. Someone will give up on fishing. Someone will need to unload it because of divorce and so on…. All this really depends on where you plan on fishing. Most likely, if you going to spend over 10 grand, you’re going to end up hitting big water. And that’s when you’ll wish you had fiberglass. If you plan on never fishing big water, aluminum will be best as far as price goes. Arm yourself with information and take your time on making a decision. Oh, your tow vehicle should be considered in this as well.   Charlie

Response:

Regarding tow vehicles. My current vehicle is a Volvo 850 turbo wagon.  Rated at 2000 lbs unbraked, I think 3200 braked. I plan to install a transmission cooler.  With this wagon, will I be able to tow most fibreglass bass boats? Henry

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now you guys got me really confused.   Here’s how I see it. Every boat is a compromise in some way. Aluminum compromises ride and handling. That is, unless you get one of the high end aluminum boats. Then the price tag says that you could have gotten fiberglass. If you go with a mid range aluminum, 10-12 grand, you’ll have a fine boat that will do many things well. But, for about the same price, you could get a nice used fiberblass boat. All you need to do is learn how to avoid buying a “lemon” and be patient. A good deal will come around. Someone will give up on fishing. Someone will need to unload it because of divorce and so on…. All this really depends on where you plan on fishing. Most likely, if you going to spend over 10 grand, you’re going to end up hitting big water. And that’s when you’ll wish you had fiberglass. If you plan on never fishing big water, aluminum will be best as far as price goes. Arm yourself with information and take your time on making a decision. Oh, your tow vehicle should be considered in this as well.   Charlie

Response:

Regarding tow vehicles. My current vehicle is a Volvo 850 turbo wagon.  Rated at 2000 lbs unbraked, I think 3200 braked. I plan to install a transmission cooler.  With this wagon, will I be able to tow most fibreglass bass boats?

You should be able to.  Just remember that whatever boat you decide on, your braking distances will be affected.  I’ve pulled glass boats with a little v6 powered Jeep Cherokee and done just fine.  But, I took into consideration reduced acceleration and increased braking distances. –

Response:

Question:

Now lets not catch all the fish on Beaver.bass fly fishing techniques  Remember I gotta come back there next April for the Wal-Mart open. Hope you leave me a few fish.   Keep your eyes on the fish for next year and let me know where they are. — Good fishing, Richard L. LaFay | (248) 753-6940 (work) 2887 Pontiac Court  | (248) 373-6865 (home) Auburn Hills, Michigan   48326 Ranger Boats, Lowrance Electronics, Berkley Trilene, Rippler, and Bill Norman Lures. I use them because I think they’re the best!

bass fly fishing techniquesglad to hear it!  I find the fishing often good when thunderstorms are approaching.  But you really have to keep one eye onyour line & the other on the sky. Warren

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Next year you remember to not leave everyone else so many bass… Warren   Happiness is Rippin’ Lips!

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Wouldn’t rub it in, would youbass fly fishing techniquesSounds like a great day.  I have never caught anything on a tube or fluke.  Tell us how you did it.  Structures, depth, color of shirt you were wearing and where is that honey hole, exactly! — Go fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales!

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a really good day.  I went to the clear water in the lake as we have had more than our fair share of rain as of late and the lake level and clarity are all sporadic at this time.  Anyway, upon arriving in my first area I tied on a few different lures on a few different rods to get ready for the day.  I rigged one combo with a 4″ tube bait, one combo with a 6″ trick worm, and one rod with a Zoom Super Fluke.  Then I went to fishing the area.  I caught about 4 bass on the jerkbaits, 2 bass on the trick worm, and about 10 bass on the tube bait.  I caught fish to about 4 pounds (3.7 lbs) to be exact and had a wonderful time doing so.  Just thought some of my Beaver buddies would like to know that the fishing is good if you get out and give it a try. By the way Greg Hardig,  I was fishing around your dock area near 3 fingers cove and saw about a 25 pound striper washed up dead near the shore. Wouldn’t be one of your victims would it? IF you are ever on beaver check me out.  I am the one in the 99 Bass Tracker 185 catching all those spotted bass on the points. bass fly fishing techniques

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Hi BASSMAN, I’ve been away from Beaver Lake since 1969..bass fly fishing techniques. It was HOT during the early years! I read accounts here on the newsgroup of schooling shad being ripped up by feeding hybrids (white bass) and largemouth and the fever still rises.   I can visualize schools of shad covering half an acre at times erupting with feeding fish.   At that time (before the proliferation of so many different lures) mostly, we used the smallest black and white Rapala and spinning rigs.  Does this still happen on Beaver? I’ve heard that it has turned into a trophy lake for stripers, your post kind of confirms this. The game and fish planted Northern Pike in Beaver early on.  Are they still around?  (The pike.) Bill Linn – Northern Idaho   (Still looking for a way to get rid of “Anonmymous” in the From column.) Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a

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Response:

Nice day Bazzman, glad to hear it!  I find the fishing often good when thunderstorms are approaching.  But you really have to keep one eye onyour line & the other on the sky. Warren

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did anyone except me snicker when they read this post title <grin ? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wouldn’t rub it in, would you?!  Sounds like a great day.  I have never caught anything on a tube or fluke.  Tell us how you did it.  Structures, depth, color of shirt you were wearing and where is that honey hole, exactly! — Go fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales! Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a really good day.  I went to the clear water in the lake as we have had more than our fair share of rain as of late and the lake level and clarity are all sporadic at this time.  Anyway, upon arriving in my first area I tied on a few different lures on a few different rods to get ready for the day. I rigged one combo with a 4″ tube bait, one combo with a 6″ trick worm, and one rod with a Zoom Super Fluke.  Then I went to fishing the area.  I caught about 4 bass on the jerkbaits, 2 bass on the trick worm, and about 10 bass on the tube bait.  I caught fish to about 4 pounds (3.7 lbs) to be exact and had a wonderful time doing so.  Just thought some of my Beaver buddies would like to know that the fishing is good if you get out and give it a try. By the way Greg Hardig,  I was fishing around your dock area near 3 fingers cove and saw about a 25 pound striper washed up dead near the shore. Wouldn’t be one of your victims would it? IF you are ever on beaver check me out.  I am the one in the 99 Bass Tracker 185 catching all those spotted bass on the points.  :-) — <<                                                      <                  <                                                               <<

Response:

what is a bad day at the Beaver??? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – did anyone except me snicker when they read this post title <grin ? Wouldn’t rub it in, would you?!  Sounds like a great day.  I have never caught anything on a tube or fluke.  Tell us how you did it.  Structures, depth, color of shirt you were wearing and where is that honey hole, exactly! — Go fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales! Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a really good day.  I went to the clear water in the lake as we have had more than our fair share of rain as of late and the lake level and clarity are all sporadic at this time.  Anyway, upon arriving in my first area I tied on a few different lures on a few different rods to get ready for the day. I rigged one combo with a 4″ tube bait, one combo with a 6″ trick worm, and one rod with a Zoom Super Fluke.  Then I went to fishing the area.  I caught about 4 bass on the jerkbaits, 2 bass on the trick worm, and about 10 bass on the tube bait.  I caught fish to about 4 pounds (3.7 lbs) to be exact and had a wonderful time doing so.  Just thought some of my Beaver buddies would like to know that the fishing is good if you get out and give it a try. By the way Greg Hardig,  I was fishing around your dock area near 3 fingers cove and saw about a 25 pound striper washed up dead near the shore. Wouldn’t be one of your victims would it? IF you are ever on beaver check me out.  I am the one in the 99 Bass Tracker 185 catching all those spotted bass on the points.  :-) — <<                                                      <                  <                                                               <<

Response:

Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a really good day.  I went to the clear water in the lake as we have had more than our fair share of rain as of late and the lake level and clarity are all sporadic at this time.  Anyway, upon arriving in my first area I tied on a few different lures on a few different rods to get ready for the day.  I rigged one combo with a 4″ tube bait, one combo with a 6″ trick worm, and one rod with a Zoom Super Fluke.  Then I went to fishing the area.  I caught about 4 bass on the jerkbaits, 2 bass on the trick worm, and about 10 bass on the tube bait.  I caught fish to about 4 pounds (3.7 lbs) to be exact and had a wonderful time doing so.  Just thought some of my Beaver buddies would like to know that the fishing is good if you get out and give it a try. By the way Greg Hardig,  I was fishing around your dock area near 3 fingers cove and saw about a 25 pound striper washed up dead near the shore. Wouldn’t be one of your victims would it? IF you are ever on beaver check me out.  I am the one in the 99 Bass Tracker 185 catching all those spotted bass on the points.  :-) — <<                                                      <                  <                                                               <<

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Question:

The difference between a top shelf fish finder top for Bass Tracker
and one of less ability is also measured by the unit’s ability to process the signal it receives. The difference between the two is like day and night. Hire an instructional guide and they can teach you volumes about how to setup a fish finder and how to interpret its display.top for Bass Tracker
Good fishing

Response:

gee…little did I know that I would spark such a debate.  My bottom line is a fish a lake with a lot of top for Bass Tracker
standing timber and I wonder what level of depth finder can distinguish the difference between tree limbs and fish. The eagle cheapy that came with my bass tracker doesn’t do it at all. However I don’t want to simply pay more money to find out that the ‘better’ one can’t do it either. thanks for info and entertainment

Response:

gee.top for Bass Tracker
..little did I know that I would spark such a debate.  My bottom line is a fish a lake with a lot of standing timber and I wonder what level of depth finder can distinguish the difference between tree limbs and fish. The eagle cheapy that came with my bass tracker doesn’t do it at all. However I don’t want to simply pay more money to find out that the ‘better’ one can’t do it either. thanks for info and entertainment

Paul you have posed an extremely difficult question.top for Bass Tracker
LCR systems all work in the same manner.  The cost difference is based on whistles and bells, and the display quality(usually stated in Vertical Pixels per inch.) Since the LCR is mechanical it can not tell the difference between fish, tree limbs, or anything else suspended from the bottom. However the better pixel count displays allow for the operator to better interpret what the return is. FISH ID must be off!  All LCR’s display anything suspended as a Fish Symbol with FISH ID on.  Volumes could and probably have been written about how LCR’s operate.  The best crash course I could suggest would be to find some extremely clear water (where you can see the bottom) and compare what your LCR shows to what you can see.top for Bass Tracker
Remember the angle of the transducer regulates the amount of bottom being covered. (Transducer angles are another whole issue).   I fish relatively shallow lakes (average depth less than 15 feet) and have four Eagle Units and one Lowrance Unit on my two boats.  In most cases the low end unit meets my needs as well as the higher end units.

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Question:

I do not doubt that, once again,Bass Tracker sale we the people, have been had. Seems like everything is made cheaper and costs the same, if not more. But,have you checked your wiring? I experienced similar difficulties after replacing a Minn Kota on my Bass Tracker(87 model). Most factory wiring is AWG 8 at best (mine had AWG10!)Bass Tracker sale   Over time, wiring will develop some electrical resistance and it will greatly affect performance. The plug-in and fuse-holder can also create a voltage drop.  If possible, replace the entire wiring to your trolling motor with AWG6 cable. It looks like overkill, but it WILL make a difference! (TIP: If your wiring gets more than slightly warm on High Speed, Your wire size is inadequate)  At least change out your connector. They aren’t real expensive and are practically impossible to clean tarnish and corrosion from. All connections should also be soldered . ( A crimp is not suitable for the current you are delivering….you must eliminate all chances of a voltage drop) Finally,Bass Tracker sale a dollop of dielectic grease on the plug-in will prevent future corrosion.   You may know all this already. If so, my apologies, but maybe it will assist others.   One last note: the larger wire is too big for standard fuseholders to accomodate. Go to an auto stereo house and get an audio sound system fuse holder. They have brass connectors and are  o-ring sealed. They will accept AWG 6 wire and have different capacity fuses available.

Response:

Pearlman, All connections should also be soldered .Bass Tracker sale  ( A crimp is not suitable for the current you are delivering….you must eliminate all chances of a voltage drop)

All good and valid points, except for maybe the solder versus the crimp. Solder connects are higher resistant connections than crimp or mechanical connects.  Because of that, it is preferably to go with a mechanical connection.  I think your points about clean connections and big wire is the secret of moving a large current with a low voltage.  Many of the connections found in bass boats are not really designed for a wet environment.Bass Tracker sale  The wet environment causes corrosion which causes resistance. Richard

Response:

Sorry to hear about your motorguide problems, but I would like to ask you a different question  How do you like your Super Bandit boat? I always thought the Bandit looked like a good boat and was intersested in your opinion after a few years of use. Thanks for any info.Bass Tracker sale This is something I feel others should know before considering Motorguide trolling motors…… In 1994 I bought a new Alumacraft Super Bandit bass boat.  (18 ft).  It came equiped with a Motorguide 4 trolling motor, 30 lb thrust.  It did

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This is something I feel others should know before considering Motorguide trolling motors…… In 1994 I bought a new Alumacraft Super Bandit bass boat.  (18 ft).  It came equiped with a Motorguide 4 trolling motor, 30 lb thrust.  It did a pretty good job of moving my boat around, I was pretty happy with it.  As a matter of fact, I’ve always used Motorguide, and have had no complaints.   I fish a lot, and by 1997 I had pretty much worn that motor out.  I’m also on a limited budget, and was hard put to replace it.  So, when I did, I bought another Motorguide 30lb thrust.  The first thing I noticed was that the power head was alot smaller than my old motor.  I called Motorguide, and was tolded that despite the reduced size, it was still a 30lb thrust motor.  They told me the motor had been downsized for cost purposes, but was equal to it’s earlier version. Trusting that, I kept the motor, and soon found that not to be true. First, speeds 1 & 2 are so low, they are practically useless, 3 & 4 are bearly any better.  All of the power is in speed 5.  This means that the power is not evenly distributed among the five speeds. Even on speed 5 I can no longer hold in the wind like I used to. It seems more like a 20lb motor that a 30lb. I emailed Motorguide, explaining the problem, but it seems to have fallen on deaf ears, there was no response from them.  I feel like I was ripped off.   Also it seems to me that if a smaller motor has to run faster to produce the same power, it will have a shorter life. I guess Motorguide wins all around.

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just convinced me to stay with MinnKota fish ON! roger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is something I feel others should know before considering Motorguide trolling motors…… In 1994 I bought a new Alumacraft Super Bandit bass boat.  (18 ft).  It came equiped with a Motorguide 4 trolling motor, 30 lb thrust.  It did a pretty good job of moving my boat around, I was pretty happy with it.  As a matter of fact, I’ve always used Motorguide, and have had no complaints. I fish a lot, and by 1997 I had pretty much worn that motor out.  I’m also on a limited budget, and was hard put to replace it.  So, when I did, I bought another Motorguide 30lb thrust.  The first thing I noticed was that the power head was alot smaller than my old motor.  I called Motorguide, and was tolded that despite the reduced size, it was still a 30lb thrust motor.  They told me the motor had been downsized for cost purposes, but was equal to it’s earlier version. Trusting that, I kept the motor, and soon found that not to be true. First, speeds 1 & 2 are so low, they are practically useless, 3 & 4 are bearly any better.  All of the power is in speed 5.  This means that the power is not evenly distributed among the five speeds. Even on speed 5 I can no longer hold in the wind like I used to. It seems more like a 20lb motor that a 30lb. I emailed Motorguide, explaining the problem, but it seems to have fallen on deaf ears, there was no response from them.  I feel like I was ripped off.   Also it seems to me that if a smaller motor has to run faster to produce the same power, it will have a shorter life. I guess Motorguide wins all around.

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Question:

Just bought 20001 bass tracker pro 18 the light under the consoul will not go out diecast bass fishing Before you buy.

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20001? Wow!diecast bass fishing Talk about future shock! Haha  – Just bought 20001 bass tracker pro 18 the light under the consoul will not go out Before you buy.

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What light under the console? In the 2000 models there was one on the side of the console.  It’s a horizontal light.  You kind of roll it down in the socket to turn it off.  Just slide your hand from top to bottom and it’ll go off.   20001? Wow! Talk about future shock! Haha Mike Just bought 20001 bass tracker pro 18 the light under the consoul will not go out Before you buy.

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Question:

what do u think his question is,glasper 17ft fishing bass boat can only be how to switch it light under the dash of bass tracker 18 pro will not go out And your question is….?

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I hope by now you’ve removed the bulb until you can figure it out!!!!         Is there an on/off switch? Is it working properly?glasper 17ft fishing bass boat Isolate the switch from the rest of the circuit and test it for continuity in the “on” position and none in the “off” position….[And use a Volt Ohm-meter. NOT a continuity tester. You must have INFINATE resistance in the "off" position. ANY continuity reading means that electrons are leaking thru the switch. And illuminating the light.] Also, make sure that it isn’t a three position light switch and you haven’t inadvertantly set it to the wrong postion.glasper 17ft fishing bass boat It may have a high, dim, off type of operation…. just guessing.         Bulb installed properly?         If this is a metal boat;         Negative terminal of socket grounding out, completing the circuit? (Can’t think WHY they’d have the switch in the negative side of the circuit, but you never know with these boat builders!)         Above all else; What does the book say!? (The boat owner’s manual- you DID get one didn’t you!?)

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light under the dash of bass tracker 18 pro will not go out Before you buy.

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light under the dash of bass tracker 18 pro will not go out

And your question is….?

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Question:

For Sale: 2 man BassTracker boat:winter Bass Tracker
9′ 3″ olive green. Has 2 sliding seats (which can be removed) with full space underneath for rods/winter Bass Tracker
reels Comes with MinnKota model 35  24lbs thrust weedless powerprop and Deep Cycle Marine Battery  all for $350.00 I live in Florence, Kentucky email me at worldnet.att.net

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2 man BassTracker boat:  9′ 3″ olive green.

Sounds like my BassHunter….are you sure its a Bass Tracker??

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Whats the weight limit on this boat??winter Bass Tracker
–myself and my fishing buddy both being “wide-glides”

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Question:

Bass Trackernitro bass fishing boatPro Team 17 1996 Model Tracker Bass Boat. Seventeen foot, console drive, hydraulic motor trim, live well, 2 fishing platform seats, trolling motor, 40HP Tracker motor. This boat has enough size and power to tackle even the most challenging fishing situations. Used for one year, the motor has less than 50 hours on it. In excellent condition, includes Tracker trailer, battery charger, and anchor. Would consider trade for late model vehicle. Boat is located in Arlington, Texas.nitro bass fishing boat Pictures available upon request. Email for asking price…

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Lets be honest..nitro bass fishing boat. It is a good boat for small to medium size  inland lakes….  But Big Water…. This is not the boat you want to be on in rough water…. Rough being 2ft.+ waves….   But it sounds like a great deal for anyone interested in a nice boat…nitro bass fishing boat.  I owned one and was more than pleased with performance…  GREAT DEAL for someone’s first bass boat….

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I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.equipment review bass  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.equipment review bass  Any other comments or advise ?

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Use OMC Carbon Guard. Stabil and OMC 2X4 conditioner is for keeping stored gas fresh over a period of time.equipment review bass OMC recommends a bottle of Carbon Guard to each tank of gas or using Engine Tuner annually. Note: engines with over 100 hours of service: OMC recommends using Engine Tuner before adding Carbon Guard. I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years equipment review bass ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ? equipment review bass  My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil..

Mark McCoy <a href=”http://members.aol.com/mmccoy01/index.html”McCoy’s</a  Bumpus Mills, Tennessee

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When I had my 110 Johnson rebuilt, the mechanic told me the way to keep carbon buildup from happening equipment review bass(he was talking about the warranty period) is to not use just one or two speeds, like idle and WOT.  And he strongly recommended replacing the spark plugs each year (we don’t have seasons in South Carolina).equipment review bass It has only been two years,  but so far it seems to work.  When I first get on the water, I let the motor warm up at idle while I park the Jimmy.  When I get back to the boat, I let her cruise As I —    Go Fishing.  And may your fish be as big as your tales.    Columbia, SC  Lake Murray

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.  Any other comments or advise ? -=- Paul -=-

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Make sure you’re burning TCW-III rated ob oil as well.   I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.  Any other comments or advise ? -=- Paul -=-

–  __  __/   __  /_/ /__  ,<    _  /___   _  _, _/ _  /| |    /_____/   /_/ |_|  /_/ |_|

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Evinrude TCW-III was the only oil I ever ran, which apparently didn’t make any diff.   I see where Evinrude now has a new oil which has Carbx (sp?)  in it to keep carbon out of your engine.  Maybe I’ll try some of that.  However,  this weekend I’m going to be out looking for OMC carbon guard, which someone recommeded earlier in this thread. Hope that does the trick.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Make sure you’re burning TCW-III rated ob oil as well.   I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.  Any other comments or advise ? -=- Paul -=- — __  __/   __  /_/ /__  ,<   _  /___   _  _, _/ _  /| |   /_____/   /_/ |_|  /_/ |_|

-=- Paul -=-

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Somebody in the group, not too long ago, stated that “TC-W3 and premium fuel was a no-no”. Breaks down the lubricating compounds of the oil.

Premium gas and TC-W3 is definatelly a NO-NO.  The reason is, there is a large amount of detergent additives in TC-W3, as there is also a large amount in premium gasoline.   When you mix that much detergent additives together, they end up diluting the lubricating abilities of the oil itself.  Very bad scene there. If your buddy insists on running premium gas, then tell him to belly up to the bar and be a real man and run the racing synthetic oil to go with it.  Don’t screw around, let’s see how much cash you can really waste. And waste it is, most motors today run just fine on 88 octane fuel. Unless he’s cut the heads and ran the ignition timing way up, premium fuel is just a big expense and can certainly damage that John-O-Ruter he’s running.

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you can really waste. And waste it is, most motors today run just fine on 88 octane fuel. <snip Pat, I’m glad to hear you say that. Shortly after I bought my boat in 95 , Jimmy Houston said to use regular unleaded. They didn’t need premium. My cousin (even after I told him) continued running premium. His motor was rebuilt twice in 3 years ( piston walls scored ). $3500 a pop. Last year he bought a 4 stroke yamaha. Thanks for the info, Steve   — Release em today so they can play again tomorrow. Practice CPR. catch photo release.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Somebody in the group, not too long ago, stated that “TC-W3 and premium fuel was a no-no”. Breaks down the lubricating compounds of the oil. Premium gas and TC-W3 is definatelly a NO-NO.  The reason is, there is a large amount of detergent additives in TC-W3, as there is also a large amount in premium gasoline. When you mix that much detergent additives together, they end up diluting the lubricating abilities of the oil itself.  Very bad scene there. If your buddy insists on running premium gas, then tell him to belly up to the bar and be a real man and run the racing synthetic oil to go with it. Don’t screw around, let’s see how much cash you can really waste. And waste it is, most motors today run just fine on 88 octane fuel. Unless he’s cut the heads and ran the ignition timing way up, premium fuel is just a big expense and can certainly damage that John-O-Ruter he’s running.

Hey Pat , my motor is an 81 model . I’m not sure , but I think the lowest grade available at the time was what the highest grade is today . I’ve been running Amoco 93 with Mercury Quicksilver . What do you think ?     Ripsomelips

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The owners manual that came with a 1992 70 hp. OMC motor that I had said use 87 octane or higher. It said PREMIUM gasoline was specifically encouraged because it may contain additives that would help eliminate carbon buildup. It also said to use TCW-3 oil. The manual for the 1998 OMC 115 hp that I have now only says to use 87 octane or higher. If you want gas that has less detergents, then buy the cheap, no name gas at Walmarts. Mark McCoy <a href=”http://members.aol.com/mmccoy01/index.html”McCoy’s</a  Bumpus Mills, Tennessee

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Paul!! They suggest that you use the middle of the line gas( 89 octane )in a 60hp engine!                                         Abe Watson

I’m running a Johnson 115 now and I’m burning regular. I’ve was told by one mechanic that alot of the carbon problem is caused by the newer fuels that burn cooler. Also, I guess it doesn’t help running at low speeds in cold water ( winter duck hunting ).   My engine is new and my plan is to burn regular fuel (87),  OMC oil, OMC 2+4 (stabil) , and OMC carbon guard.  Time will tell if I’ve made the right decision. -=- Paul -=-

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I was told the same thing by Galaxie Marine in Auburn, CA. I have a ‘91 Johnson GT200 on my 190 DCX Champion and was told to use 89 octane and NEVER use premium. The premium has additives designed for 4-stroke motors and it will harm 2-stroke outboards quickly. I was also told to use Chevron and 76 gas only, Mercury Premium plus TCW3 2-stroke oil, and add 1 oz. per gallon of fuel in the tank in addition to the oil injection if I am going to run it hard. I was also told to use OMC’s Carbon Guard in every other tank full. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Paul!! They suggest that you use the middle of the line gas( 89 octane )in a 60hp engine!                                         Abe Watson I’m running a Johnson 115 now and I’m burning regular. I’ve was told by one mechanic that alot of the carbon problem is caused by the newer fuels that burn cooler. Also, I guess it doesn’t help running at low speeds in cold water ( winter duck hunting ).   My engine is new and my plan is to burn regular fuel (87),  OMC oil, OMC 2+4 (stabil) , and OMC carbon guard.  Time will tell if I’ve made the right decision. -=- Paul -=-

“Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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I think the problem is that every marine dealer and mechanic has a different opinion and none of them know the facts. I was told by my dealer to never run anything BUT premium. Also, one owner’s manual (92 OMC 70) said premium was encouraged and another later manual (98 OMC 115) said only to use 87 or higher octane.

Mark, The reason why the older manual said premium and the newer one said 87 or higher is because the formulation of gas has changed. I was told to run premium in my 45 hp Mariner on my Bass Tracker when I bought it in ‘87, and I am now told to use only the 89 octane as the premium has been reformulated for 4-stroke car/truck engines. With all due respect, if your dealer said to run premium in it with the newer gasolines then he doesn’t know what he is talking about. Mike “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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I think the problem is that every marine dealer and mechanic has a different opinion and none of them know the facts. I was told by my dealer to never run anything BUT premium. Also, one owner’s manual (92 OMC 70) said premium was encouraged and another later manual (98 OMC 115) said only to use 87 or higher octane. I was told the same thing by Galaxie Marine in Auburn, CA. I have a ‘91 Johnson GT200 on my 190 DCX Champion and was told to use 89 octane and NEVER use premium. The premium has additives designed for 4-stroke motors and it will harm 2-stroke outboards quickly. I was also told to use Chevron and 76 gas only, Mercury Premium plus TCW3 2-stroke oil, and add 1 oz. per gallon of fuel in the tank in addition to the oil injection if I am going to run it hard. I was also told to use OMC’s Carbon Guard in every other tank full.

Mark McCoy <a href=”http://members.aol.com/mmccoy01/index.html”McCoy’s</a  Bumpus Mills, Tennessee

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I was told by my dealer to never run anything BUT premium. Also, one owner’s manual (92 OMC 70) said premium was encouraged and another later manual (98 OMC 115) said only to use 87 or higher octane. Mark,

Mike was mostly correct, just left a few “whys” out of the equation. True the gas we’re running now is reformulated from what it used to be.  Mostly there is a lot more detergent in premium than there used to be..this is the problem with your outboard. TCWIII oil has much more detergent additives in it than the TCWII did.  When you combine III with today’s premium gas, it is a “overload” of detergent, which over time will cause bad things.  Stuck rings, and more important, the gas/oil mixture will not stay together properly in the crancase of that two stroke engine, which will lead to major failure. So, to put it simply, DO NOT mix TCWIII oil and premium gas.   Pat

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OK, so why  doesn’t the outboard manufacturers say not to use premium gasoline.  If premium damaged motors, why don’t the outboard manufacturers inform their customers not to use it? My 1998 manual says: Use any regular unleaded, regular leaded, OR PREMIUM UNLEADED automotive gasoline and TCW-3 oil. Mike was mostly correct, just left a few “whys” out of the equation. True the gas we’re running now is reformulated from what it used to be. Mostly there is a lot more detergent in premium than there used to be..this is the problem with your outboard. TCWIII oil has much more detergent additives in it than the TCWII did.  When you combine III with today’s premium gas, it is a “overload” of detergent, which over time will cause bad things.  Stuck rings, and more important, the gas/oil mixture will not stay together properly in the crancase of that two stroke engine, which will lead to major failure.

Mark McCoy <a href=”http://members.aol.com/mmccoy01/index.html”McCoy’s</a  Bumpus Mills, Tennessee

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<< OK, so why  doesn’t the outboard manufacturers say not to use premium gasoline. JOB SECURITY

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I also see where Evinrude has come out with a new oil which contains Carbx, suppost to help protect your engine: http://www.omc-online.com/genuineparts/OIL%20WEBSITE/home.html Wonder if this stuff can be run in pre-mix or standard injection systems or only Evinrude’s with this new FICHT system ? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I was told the same thing by Galaxie Marine in Auburn, CA. I have a ‘91 Johnson GT200 on my 190 DCX Champion and was told to use 89 octane and NEVER use premium. The premium has additives designed for 4-stroke motors and it will harm 2-stroke outboards quickly. I was also told to use Chevron and 76 gas only, Mercury Premium plus TCW3 2-stroke oil, and add 1 oz. per gallon of fuel in the tank in addition to the oil injection if I am going to run it hard. I was also told to use OMC’s Carbon Guard in every other tank full. Mike Paul!! They suggest that you use the middle of the line gas( 89 octane )in a 60hp engine!                                         Abe Watson I’m running a Johnson 115 now and I’m burning regular. I’ve was told by one mechanic that alot of the carbon problem is caused by the newer fuels that burn cooler. Also, I guess it doesn’t help running at low speeds in cold water ( winter duck hunting ).   My engine is new and my plan is to burn regular fuel (87),  OMC oil, OMC 2+4 (stabil) , and OMC carbon guard.  Time will tell if I’ve made the right decision. -=- Paul -=- “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

-=- Paul -=-

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If I can remember, later I will research this issue.  But one of us needs to find the answer.  I was using premium until about a year ago, when my old ‘89 Johnson started to miss.  Pulled the spark plugs and noticed the anodes were pretty well gone.  Changed the spark plugs, switched to regular unleaded gas, and haven’t had a problem since. Where are the mechanics here when you really need them? —    Go Fishing.  And may your fish be as big as your tales.    Columbia, SC  Lake Murray

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.  Any other comments or advise ? -=- Paul -=-

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Immmmmmmmm connnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnfuzzzzzzed… I have a Merc XR6 150… Have always been told to use nothing but premium.. has that changed or does it make a difference with smaller motors? Help appreciated.       josh

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was told the same thing by Galaxie Marine in Auburn, CA. I have a ‘91 Johnson GT200 on my 190 DCX Champion and was told to use 89 octane and NEVER use premium. The premium has additives designed for 4-stroke motors and it will harm 2-stroke outboards quickly. I was also told to use Chevron and 76 gas only, Mercury Premium plus TCW3 2-stroke oil, and add 1 oz. per gallon of fuel in the tank in addition to the oil injection if I am going to run it hard. I was also told to use OMC’s Carbon Guard in every other tank full. Mike Paul!! They suggest that you use the middle of the line gas( 89 octane )in a 60hp engine!                                         Abe Watson I’m running a Johnson 115 now and I’m burning regular. I’ve was told by one mechanic that alot of the carbon problem is caused by the newer fuels that burn cooler. Also, I guess it doesn’t help running at low speeds in cold water ( winter duck hunting ).   My engine is new and my plan is to burn regular fuel (87),  OMC oil, OMC 2+4 (stabil) , and OMC carbon guard.  Time will tell if I’ve made the right decision. -=- Paul -=- “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Immmmmmmmm connnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnfuzzzzzzed… I have a Merc XR6 150… Have always been told to use nothing but premium.. has that changed or does it make a difference with smaller motors? Help appreciated.

josh I would talk to a couple of good boat mechanics and get their input. I have talked to two different mechanics here in CA who are about 150 miles apart from each other, and who are considered the best outboard mechanics in their areas by numerous customer’s input. They both told me to use 89 octane and to NEVER use 92 octane premium. I am going to take their advice as it would not benefit them in any way to recommend one fuel over another. Maybe gas formulations are different throughout the country? Mike “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

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