Question:

I’m considering bass texas fly a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?bass texas fly  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

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I had an aluminum and now have a fiberglass boat. I miss the ease of launching the old aluminum. bass texas fly I could put it in anywhere. Now I have to look for ramps where there is a dock to tie up to so I won’t scratch the bottom up. If I ever buy another one, I will go back to the aluminum. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?bass texas fly   Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

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I have an bass tracker 17 1/2 aluminum and I love it.bass texas fly  I can glide thru on less than 18 inches of water, tougher than nails.  you don’t have to worry if you bump a stump or two. the ease of launching and towing,and my main reason in the 1st place price,price and that’s right price.

bass texas flyI’m considering a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

Response:

Depends on where you are fishing and what you want from a boat. If you normally fish lakes that get real windy with a lot of chop I wouldn’t even consider the aluminum. Fiberglass boats are heavier which makes them less affected by wind when running the trolling motor, but they are more money. Just look at all your options and make a careful well-researched decision. Mike

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m considering a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

Response:

I had an aluminum and now have a fiberglass boat. I miss the ease of launching the old aluminum. I could put it in anywhere. Now I have to look for ramps where there is a dock to tie up to so I won’t scratch the bottom up. If I ever buy another one, I will go back to the aluminum.

Mark, look into a KeelGuard.  They’re for sale in BassPro and Cabela’s. I’ve had them on my last two glass boats and they really work.  I beach my boat all the time without damaging the hull. –

Response:

I’m considering a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum?

Fisher makes a fine boat.  I’ve looked at them and I like the layout of the boat and they appear to be well made.  However, I’m running a glass boat for several reasons. A well made fiberglass hull is more efficient in getting up on plane and better handling once there.  Fiberglass can be molded and contoured into any shape desired, helping the efficiency.  Aluminum can only be bent so many ways. There are no welds or rivets to work loose on glass hulls.  Should there be damage to a glass hull, any auto body shop can make the repairs.  Try to find someone that can weld aluminum decently, there aren’t any places in the Rhinelander area that can. Check the hull weight on aluminum boats versus glass boats.  Most glass boats being made today are made with composite materials, reducing the weight.  Aluminum boats, once the decks, rodlockers, etc are added are not that much lighter.  Maybe if you’re comparing a 16′ aluminum rowboat to a 16′ bassboat, there’s a substantial difference but I’ll bet you’ll be surprised at how minimal these actual differences are.  A friend of mine has a 17′ aluminum Crestliner fishing boat that actually weighed 300 pounds more than my 17′ Tuffy glass boat. If you fish in colder climates like I do, aluminum boats conduct cold from the water like you wouldn’t believe.  Glass boats are warmer feeling when fishing cold weather. I like the way that glass boats handle, they seem to carve out turns better, with little side skipping like my aluminum boat did. I could go on and on with this subject but in the interest of not boring you, I won’t .  There are pros and cons to both materials, however I think that you should look at fiberglass again, taking these points into consideration. –

Response:

The KeelGuards are cheap and won’t last that long. Get a Hamby’s instead! Mike

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had an aluminum and now have a fiberglass boat. I miss the ease of launching the old aluminum. I could put it in anywhere. Now I have to look for ramps where there is a dock to tie up to so I won’t scratch the bottom up. If I ever buy another one, I will go back to the aluminum. Mark, look into a KeelGuard.  They’re for sale in BassPro and Cabela’s. I’ve had them on my last two glass boats and they really work.  I beach my boat all the time without damaging the hull. –

Response:

Now you guys got me really confused.

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m considering a new bassboat this year and I was intrigued by a Fisher boat that I saw at a sportsman’s show. I’m attracted to aluminum for a few reasons – low weight (towing and fuel efficiency) and less maintenance. I know that fiberglas is more stable at speed but is aluminum really that bad?  Are any pros running aluminum boats?  Are there any other reasons not to go aluminum? Fisher makes a fine boat.  I’ve looked at them and I like the layout of the boat and they appear to be well made.  However, I’m running a glass boat for several reasons. A well made fiberglass hull is more efficient in getting up on plane and better handling once there.  Fiberglass can be molded and contoured into any shape desired, helping the efficiency.  Aluminum can only be bent so many ways. There are no welds or rivets to work loose on glass hulls.  Should there be damage to a glass hull, any auto body shop can make the repairs.  Try to find someone that can weld aluminum decently, there aren’t any places in the Rhinelander area that can. Check the hull weight on aluminum boats versus glass boats.  Most glass boats being made today are made with composite materials, reducing the weight.  Aluminum boats, once the decks, rodlockers, etc are added are not that much lighter.  Maybe if you’re comparing a 16′ aluminum rowboat to a 16′ bassboat, there’s a substantial difference but I’ll bet you’ll be surprised at how minimal these actual differences are.  A friend of mine has a 17′ aluminum Crestliner fishing boat that actually weighed 300 pounds more than my 17′ Tuffy glass boat. If you fish in colder climates like I do, aluminum boats conduct cold from the water like you wouldn’t believe.  Glass boats are warmer feeling when fishing cold weather. I like the way that glass boats handle, they seem to carve out turns better, with little side skipping like my aluminum boat did. I could go on and on with this subject but in the interest of not boring you, I won’t .  There are pros and cons to both materials, however I think that you should look at fiberglass again, taking these points into consideration. –

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It’s quite simple actually.  Talk to fishing friends, find out what they like and dislike about their boats.  Look at the different models, compare layouts, features, benefits, warranties, dealer support, get references. Narrow your choices down to a couple that you like.  Test drive the boats, hopefully under some adverse conditions, windy, large waves or big wakes if the weather won’t cooperate.  Compare ride, handling, do you get wet, etc. Try to picture all your gear in the boat, along with your overweight brother in law and see if there’s still enough room.    If after all of this, if you still like the boat, buy it. Don’t get all hung up on hull materials.  There are good aluminum boats out there.  Lund, Crestliner, Fisher are some of the better ones, I’m sure that someone else will add to the list.  But don’t overlook fiberglass because it scratches.  Big deal, scratches add character.  Most can be rubbed out anyway, deeper ones can be repaired with a gel coat kit.  I fish some really nasty areas, launching my glass boat on mostly unimproved landings without docks and my boat looks pretty darned good. Go with your gut, what do you want?  After all, it’s a sizeable investment you’re making and you’d better be happy with it. –

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Good advice Steve! Mike

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s quite simple actually.  Talk to fishing friends, find out what they like and dislike about their boats.  Look at the different models, compare layouts, features, benefits, warranties, dealer support, get references. Narrow your choices down to a couple that you like.  Test drive the boats, hopefully under some adverse conditions, windy, large waves or big wakes if the weather won’t cooperate.  Compare ride, handling, do you get wet, etc. Try to picture all your gear in the boat, along with your overweight brother in law and see if there’s still enough room.    If after all of this, if you still like the boat, buy it. Don’t get all hung up on hull materials.  There are good aluminum boats out there.  Lund, Crestliner, Fisher are some of the better ones, I’m sure that someone else will add to the list.  But don’t overlook fiberglass because it scratches.  Big deal, scratches add character.  Most can be rubbed out anyway, deeper ones can be repaired with a gel coat kit.  I fish some really nasty areas, launching my glass boat on mostly unimproved landings without docks and my boat looks pretty darned good. Go with your gut, what do you want?  After all, it’s a sizeable investment you’re making and you’d better be happy with it. –

Response:

Now you guys got me really confused.

Here’s how I see it. Every boat is a compromise in some way. Aluminum compromises ride and handling. That is, unless you get one of the high end aluminum boats. Then the price tag says that you could have gotten fiberglass. If you go with a mid range aluminum, 10-12 grand, you’ll have a fine boat that will do many things well. But, for about the same price, you could get a nice used fiberblass boat. All you need to do is learn how to avoid buying a “lemon” and be patient. A good deal will come around. Someone will give up on fishing. Someone will need to unload it because of divorce and so on…. All this really depends on where you plan on fishing. Most likely, if you going to spend over 10 grand, you’re going to end up hitting big water. And that’s when you’ll wish you had fiberglass. If you plan on never fishing big water, aluminum will be best as far as price goes. Arm yourself with information and take your time on making a decision. Oh, your tow vehicle should be considered in this as well.   Charlie

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Regarding tow vehicles. My current vehicle is a Volvo 850 turbo wagon.  Rated at 2000 lbs unbraked, I think 3200 braked. I plan to install a transmission cooler.  With this wagon, will I be able to tow most fibreglass bass boats? Henry

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now you guys got me really confused.   Here’s how I see it. Every boat is a compromise in some way. Aluminum compromises ride and handling. That is, unless you get one of the high end aluminum boats. Then the price tag says that you could have gotten fiberglass. If you go with a mid range aluminum, 10-12 grand, you’ll have a fine boat that will do many things well. But, for about the same price, you could get a nice used fiberblass boat. All you need to do is learn how to avoid buying a “lemon” and be patient. A good deal will come around. Someone will give up on fishing. Someone will need to unload it because of divorce and so on…. All this really depends on where you plan on fishing. Most likely, if you going to spend over 10 grand, you’re going to end up hitting big water. And that’s when you’ll wish you had fiberglass. If you plan on never fishing big water, aluminum will be best as far as price goes. Arm yourself with information and take your time on making a decision. Oh, your tow vehicle should be considered in this as well.   Charlie

Response:

Regarding tow vehicles. My current vehicle is a Volvo 850 turbo wagon.  Rated at 2000 lbs unbraked, I think 3200 braked. I plan to install a transmission cooler.  With this wagon, will I be able to tow most fibreglass bass boats?

You should be able to.  Just remember that whatever boat you decide on, your braking distances will be affected.  I’ve pulled glass boats with a little v6 powered Jeep Cherokee and done just fine.  But, I took into consideration reduced acceleration and increased braking distances. –

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Question:

Now lets not catch all the fish on Beaver.bass fly fishing techniques  Remember I gotta come back there next April for the Wal-Mart open. Hope you leave me a few fish.   Keep your eyes on the fish for next year and let me know where they are. — Good fishing, Richard L. LaFay | (248) 753-6940 (work) 2887 Pontiac Court  | (248) 373-6865 (home) Auburn Hills, Michigan   48326 Ranger Boats, Lowrance Electronics, Berkley Trilene, Rippler, and Bill Norman Lures. I use them because I think they’re the best!

bass fly fishing techniquesglad to hear it!  I find the fishing often good when thunderstorms are approaching.  But you really have to keep one eye onyour line & the other on the sky. Warren

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Next year you remember to not leave everyone else so many bass… Warren   Happiness is Rippin’ Lips!

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Wouldn’t rub it in, would youbass fly fishing techniquesSounds like a great day.  I have never caught anything on a tube or fluke.  Tell us how you did it.  Structures, depth, color of shirt you were wearing and where is that honey hole, exactly! — Go fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales!

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a really good day.  I went to the clear water in the lake as we have had more than our fair share of rain as of late and the lake level and clarity are all sporadic at this time.  Anyway, upon arriving in my first area I tied on a few different lures on a few different rods to get ready for the day.  I rigged one combo with a 4″ tube bait, one combo with a 6″ trick worm, and one rod with a Zoom Super Fluke.  Then I went to fishing the area.  I caught about 4 bass on the jerkbaits, 2 bass on the trick worm, and about 10 bass on the tube bait.  I caught fish to about 4 pounds (3.7 lbs) to be exact and had a wonderful time doing so.  Just thought some of my Beaver buddies would like to know that the fishing is good if you get out and give it a try. By the way Greg Hardig,  I was fishing around your dock area near 3 fingers cove and saw about a 25 pound striper washed up dead near the shore. Wouldn’t be one of your victims would it? IF you are ever on beaver check me out.  I am the one in the 99 Bass Tracker 185 catching all those spotted bass on the points. bass fly fishing techniques

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Hi BASSMAN, I’ve been away from Beaver Lake since 1969..bass fly fishing techniques. It was HOT during the early years! I read accounts here on the newsgroup of schooling shad being ripped up by feeding hybrids (white bass) and largemouth and the fever still rises.   I can visualize schools of shad covering half an acre at times erupting with feeding fish.   At that time (before the proliferation of so many different lures) mostly, we used the smallest black and white Rapala and spinning rigs.  Does this still happen on Beaver? I’ve heard that it has turned into a trophy lake for stripers, your post kind of confirms this. The game and fish planted Northern Pike in Beaver early on.  Are they still around?  (The pike.) Bill Linn – Northern Idaho   (Still looking for a way to get rid of “Anonmymous” in the From column.) Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a

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Nice day Bazzman, glad to hear it!  I find the fishing often good when thunderstorms are approaching.  But you really have to keep one eye onyour line & the other on the sky. Warren

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did anyone except me snicker when they read this post title <grin ? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wouldn’t rub it in, would you?!  Sounds like a great day.  I have never caught anything on a tube or fluke.  Tell us how you did it.  Structures, depth, color of shirt you were wearing and where is that honey hole, exactly! — Go fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales! Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a really good day.  I went to the clear water in the lake as we have had more than our fair share of rain as of late and the lake level and clarity are all sporadic at this time.  Anyway, upon arriving in my first area I tied on a few different lures on a few different rods to get ready for the day. I rigged one combo with a 4″ tube bait, one combo with a 6″ trick worm, and one rod with a Zoom Super Fluke.  Then I went to fishing the area.  I caught about 4 bass on the jerkbaits, 2 bass on the trick worm, and about 10 bass on the tube bait.  I caught fish to about 4 pounds (3.7 lbs) to be exact and had a wonderful time doing so.  Just thought some of my Beaver buddies would like to know that the fishing is good if you get out and give it a try. By the way Greg Hardig,  I was fishing around your dock area near 3 fingers cove and saw about a 25 pound striper washed up dead near the shore. Wouldn’t be one of your victims would it? IF you are ever on beaver check me out.  I am the one in the 99 Bass Tracker 185 catching all those spotted bass on the points.  :-) — <<                                                      <                  <                                                               <<

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what is a bad day at the Beaver??? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – did anyone except me snicker when they read this post title <grin ? Wouldn’t rub it in, would you?!  Sounds like a great day.  I have never caught anything on a tube or fluke.  Tell us how you did it.  Structures, depth, color of shirt you were wearing and where is that honey hole, exactly! — Go fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales! Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a really good day.  I went to the clear water in the lake as we have had more than our fair share of rain as of late and the lake level and clarity are all sporadic at this time.  Anyway, upon arriving in my first area I tied on a few different lures on a few different rods to get ready for the day. I rigged one combo with a 4″ tube bait, one combo with a 6″ trick worm, and one rod with a Zoom Super Fluke.  Then I went to fishing the area.  I caught about 4 bass on the jerkbaits, 2 bass on the trick worm, and about 10 bass on the tube bait.  I caught fish to about 4 pounds (3.7 lbs) to be exact and had a wonderful time doing so.  Just thought some of my Beaver buddies would like to know that the fishing is good if you get out and give it a try. By the way Greg Hardig,  I was fishing around your dock area near 3 fingers cove and saw about a 25 pound striper washed up dead near the shore. Wouldn’t be one of your victims would it? IF you are ever on beaver check me out.  I am the one in the 99 Bass Tracker 185 catching all those spotted bass on the points.  :-) — <<                                                      <                  <                                                               <<

Response:

Went out this weekend before the storms hit northwest Arkansas and had a really good day.  I went to the clear water in the lake as we have had more than our fair share of rain as of late and the lake level and clarity are all sporadic at this time.  Anyway, upon arriving in my first area I tied on a few different lures on a few different rods to get ready for the day.  I rigged one combo with a 4″ tube bait, one combo with a 6″ trick worm, and one rod with a Zoom Super Fluke.  Then I went to fishing the area.  I caught about 4 bass on the jerkbaits, 2 bass on the trick worm, and about 10 bass on the tube bait.  I caught fish to about 4 pounds (3.7 lbs) to be exact and had a wonderful time doing so.  Just thought some of my Beaver buddies would like to know that the fishing is good if you get out and give it a try. By the way Greg Hardig,  I was fishing around your dock area near 3 fingers cove and saw about a 25 pound striper washed up dead near the shore. Wouldn’t be one of your victims would it? IF you are ever on beaver check me out.  I am the one in the 99 Bass Tracker 185 catching all those spotted bass on the points.  :-) — <<                                                      <                  <                                                               <<

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Question:

The difference between a top shelf fish finder top for Bass Tracker
and one of less ability is also measured by the unit’s ability to process the signal it receives. The difference between the two is like day and night. Hire an instructional guide and they can teach you volumes about how to setup a fish finder and how to interpret its display.top for Bass Tracker
Good fishing

Response:

gee…little did I know that I would spark such a debate.  My bottom line is a fish a lake with a lot of top for Bass Tracker
standing timber and I wonder what level of depth finder can distinguish the difference between tree limbs and fish. The eagle cheapy that came with my bass tracker doesn’t do it at all. However I don’t want to simply pay more money to find out that the ‘better’ one can’t do it either. thanks for info and entertainment

Response:

gee.top for Bass Tracker
..little did I know that I would spark such a debate.  My bottom line is a fish a lake with a lot of standing timber and I wonder what level of depth finder can distinguish the difference between tree limbs and fish. The eagle cheapy that came with my bass tracker doesn’t do it at all. However I don’t want to simply pay more money to find out that the ‘better’ one can’t do it either. thanks for info and entertainment

Paul you have posed an extremely difficult question.top for Bass Tracker
LCR systems all work in the same manner.  The cost difference is based on whistles and bells, and the display quality(usually stated in Vertical Pixels per inch.) Since the LCR is mechanical it can not tell the difference between fish, tree limbs, or anything else suspended from the bottom. However the better pixel count displays allow for the operator to better interpret what the return is. FISH ID must be off!  All LCR’s display anything suspended as a Fish Symbol with FISH ID on.  Volumes could and probably have been written about how LCR’s operate.  The best crash course I could suggest would be to find some extremely clear water (where you can see the bottom) and compare what your LCR shows to what you can see.top for Bass Tracker
Remember the angle of the transducer regulates the amount of bottom being covered. (Transducer angles are another whole issue).   I fish relatively shallow lakes (average depth less than 15 feet) and have four Eagle Units and one Lowrance Unit on my two boats.  In most cases the low end unit meets my needs as well as the higher end units.

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Question:

I do not doubt that, once again,Bass Tracker sale we the people, have been had. Seems like everything is made cheaper and costs the same, if not more. But,have you checked your wiring? I experienced similar difficulties after replacing a Minn Kota on my Bass Tracker(87 model). Most factory wiring is AWG 8 at best (mine had AWG10!)Bass Tracker sale   Over time, wiring will develop some electrical resistance and it will greatly affect performance. The plug-in and fuse-holder can also create a voltage drop.  If possible, replace the entire wiring to your trolling motor with AWG6 cable. It looks like overkill, but it WILL make a difference! (TIP: If your wiring gets more than slightly warm on High Speed, Your wire size is inadequate)  At least change out your connector. They aren’t real expensive and are practically impossible to clean tarnish and corrosion from. All connections should also be soldered . ( A crimp is not suitable for the current you are delivering….you must eliminate all chances of a voltage drop) Finally,Bass Tracker sale a dollop of dielectic grease on the plug-in will prevent future corrosion.   You may know all this already. If so, my apologies, but maybe it will assist others.   One last note: the larger wire is too big for standard fuseholders to accomodate. Go to an auto stereo house and get an audio sound system fuse holder. They have brass connectors and are  o-ring sealed. They will accept AWG 6 wire and have different capacity fuses available.

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Pearlman, All connections should also be soldered .Bass Tracker sale  ( A crimp is not suitable for the current you are delivering….you must eliminate all chances of a voltage drop)

All good and valid points, except for maybe the solder versus the crimp. Solder connects are higher resistant connections than crimp or mechanical connects.  Because of that, it is preferably to go with a mechanical connection.  I think your points about clean connections and big wire is the secret of moving a large current with a low voltage.  Many of the connections found in bass boats are not really designed for a wet environment.Bass Tracker sale  The wet environment causes corrosion which causes resistance. Richard

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Sorry to hear about your motorguide problems, but I would like to ask you a different question  How do you like your Super Bandit boat? I always thought the Bandit looked like a good boat and was intersested in your opinion after a few years of use. Thanks for any info.Bass Tracker sale This is something I feel others should know before considering Motorguide trolling motors…… In 1994 I bought a new Alumacraft Super Bandit bass boat.  (18 ft).  It came equiped with a Motorguide 4 trolling motor, 30 lb thrust.  It did

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This is something I feel others should know before considering Motorguide trolling motors…… In 1994 I bought a new Alumacraft Super Bandit bass boat.  (18 ft).  It came equiped with a Motorguide 4 trolling motor, 30 lb thrust.  It did a pretty good job of moving my boat around, I was pretty happy with it.  As a matter of fact, I’ve always used Motorguide, and have had no complaints.   I fish a lot, and by 1997 I had pretty much worn that motor out.  I’m also on a limited budget, and was hard put to replace it.  So, when I did, I bought another Motorguide 30lb thrust.  The first thing I noticed was that the power head was alot smaller than my old motor.  I called Motorguide, and was tolded that despite the reduced size, it was still a 30lb thrust motor.  They told me the motor had been downsized for cost purposes, but was equal to it’s earlier version. Trusting that, I kept the motor, and soon found that not to be true. First, speeds 1 & 2 are so low, they are practically useless, 3 & 4 are bearly any better.  All of the power is in speed 5.  This means that the power is not evenly distributed among the five speeds. Even on speed 5 I can no longer hold in the wind like I used to. It seems more like a 20lb motor that a 30lb. I emailed Motorguide, explaining the problem, but it seems to have fallen on deaf ears, there was no response from them.  I feel like I was ripped off.   Also it seems to me that if a smaller motor has to run faster to produce the same power, it will have a shorter life. I guess Motorguide wins all around.

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just convinced me to stay with MinnKota fish ON! roger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is something I feel others should know before considering Motorguide trolling motors…… In 1994 I bought a new Alumacraft Super Bandit bass boat.  (18 ft).  It came equiped with a Motorguide 4 trolling motor, 30 lb thrust.  It did a pretty good job of moving my boat around, I was pretty happy with it.  As a matter of fact, I’ve always used Motorguide, and have had no complaints. I fish a lot, and by 1997 I had pretty much worn that motor out.  I’m also on a limited budget, and was hard put to replace it.  So, when I did, I bought another Motorguide 30lb thrust.  The first thing I noticed was that the power head was alot smaller than my old motor.  I called Motorguide, and was tolded that despite the reduced size, it was still a 30lb thrust motor.  They told me the motor had been downsized for cost purposes, but was equal to it’s earlier version. Trusting that, I kept the motor, and soon found that not to be true. First, speeds 1 & 2 are so low, they are practically useless, 3 & 4 are bearly any better.  All of the power is in speed 5.  This means that the power is not evenly distributed among the five speeds. Even on speed 5 I can no longer hold in the wind like I used to. It seems more like a 20lb motor that a 30lb. I emailed Motorguide, explaining the problem, but it seems to have fallen on deaf ears, there was no response from them.  I feel like I was ripped off.   Also it seems to me that if a smaller motor has to run faster to produce the same power, it will have a shorter life. I guess Motorguide wins all around.

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Question:

Just bought 20001 bass tracker pro 18 the light under the consoul will not go out diecast bass fishing Before you buy.

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20001? Wow!diecast bass fishing Talk about future shock! Haha  – Just bought 20001 bass tracker pro 18 the light under the consoul will not go out Before you buy.

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What light under the console? In the 2000 models there was one on the side of the console.  It’s a horizontal light.  You kind of roll it down in the socket to turn it off.  Just slide your hand from top to bottom and it’ll go off.   20001? Wow! Talk about future shock! Haha Mike Just bought 20001 bass tracker pro 18 the light under the consoul will not go out Before you buy.

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Question:

what do u think his question is,glasper 17ft fishing bass boat can only be how to switch it light under the dash of bass tracker 18 pro will not go out And your question is….?

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I hope by now you’ve removed the bulb until you can figure it out!!!!         Is there an on/off switch? Is it working properly?glasper 17ft fishing bass boat Isolate the switch from the rest of the circuit and test it for continuity in the “on” position and none in the “off” position….[And use a Volt Ohm-meter. NOT a continuity tester. You must have INFINATE resistance in the "off" position. ANY continuity reading means that electrons are leaking thru the switch. And illuminating the light.] Also, make sure that it isn’t a three position light switch and you haven’t inadvertantly set it to the wrong postion.glasper 17ft fishing bass boat It may have a high, dim, off type of operation…. just guessing.         Bulb installed properly?         If this is a metal boat;         Negative terminal of socket grounding out, completing the circuit? (Can’t think WHY they’d have the switch in the negative side of the circuit, but you never know with these boat builders!)         Above all else; What does the book say!? (The boat owner’s manual- you DID get one didn’t you!?)

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light under the dash of bass tracker 18 pro will not go out Before you buy.

Response:

light under the dash of bass tracker 18 pro will not go out

And your question is….?

Response:

Question:

For Sale: 2 man BassTracker boat:winter Bass Tracker
9′ 3″ olive green. Has 2 sliding seats (which can be removed) with full space underneath for rods/winter Bass Tracker
reels Comes with MinnKota model 35  24lbs thrust weedless powerprop and Deep Cycle Marine Battery  all for $350.00 I live in Florence, Kentucky email me at worldnet.att.net

Response:

2 man BassTracker boat:  9′ 3″ olive green.

Sounds like my BassHunter….are you sure its a Bass Tracker??

Response:

Whats the weight limit on this boat??winter Bass Tracker
–myself and my fishing buddy both being “wide-glides”

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Question:

Bass Trackernitro bass fishing boatPro Team 17 1996 Model Tracker Bass Boat. Seventeen foot, console drive, hydraulic motor trim, live well, 2 fishing platform seats, trolling motor, 40HP Tracker motor. This boat has enough size and power to tackle even the most challenging fishing situations. Used for one year, the motor has less than 50 hours on it. In excellent condition, includes Tracker trailer, battery charger, and anchor. Would consider trade for late model vehicle. Boat is located in Arlington, Texas.nitro bass fishing boat Pictures available upon request. Email for asking price…

Response:

Lets be honest..nitro bass fishing boat. It is a good boat for small to medium size  inland lakes….  But Big Water…. This is not the boat you want to be on in rough water…. Rough being 2ft.+ waves….   But it sounds like a great deal for anyone interested in a nice boat…nitro bass fishing boat.  I owned one and was more than pleased with performance…  GREAT DEAL for someone’s first bass boat….

Response:

Question:

I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.equipment review bass  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.equipment review bass  Any other comments or advise ?

Response:

Use OMC Carbon Guard. Stabil and OMC 2X4 conditioner is for keeping stored gas fresh over a period of time.equipment review bass OMC recommends a bottle of Carbon Guard to each tank of gas or using Engine Tuner annually. Note: engines with over 100 hours of service: OMC recommends using Engine Tuner before adding Carbon Guard. I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years equipment review bass ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ? equipment review bass  My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil..

Mark McCoy <a href=”http://members.aol.com/mmccoy01/index.html”McCoy’s</a  Bumpus Mills, Tennessee

Response:

When I had my 110 Johnson rebuilt, the mechanic told me the way to keep carbon buildup from happening equipment review bass(he was talking about the warranty period) is to not use just one or two speeds, like idle and WOT.  And he strongly recommended replacing the spark plugs each year (we don’t have seasons in South Carolina).equipment review bass It has only been two years,  but so far it seems to work.  When I first get on the water, I let the motor warm up at idle while I park the Jimmy.  When I get back to the boat, I let her cruise As I —    Go Fishing.  And may your fish be as big as your tales.    Columbia, SC  Lake Murray

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.  Any other comments or advise ? -=- Paul -=-

Response:

Make sure you’re burning TCW-III rated ob oil as well.   I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.  Any other comments or advise ? -=- Paul -=-

–  __  __/   __  /_/ /__  ,<    _  /___   _  _, _/ _  /| |    /_____/   /_/ |_|  /_/ |_|

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Evinrude TCW-III was the only oil I ever ran, which apparently didn’t make any diff.   I see where Evinrude now has a new oil which has Carbx (sp?)  in it to keep carbon out of your engine.  Maybe I’ll try some of that.  However,  this weekend I’m going to be out looking for OMC carbon guard, which someone recommeded earlier in this thread. Hope that does the trick.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Make sure you’re burning TCW-III rated ob oil as well.   I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.  Any other comments or advise ? -=- Paul -=- — __  __/   __  /_/ /__  ,<   _  /___   _  _, _/ _  /| |   /_____/   /_/ |_|  /_/ |_|

-=- Paul -=-

Response:

Somebody in the group, not too long ago, stated that “TC-W3 and premium fuel was a no-no”. Breaks down the lubricating compounds of the oil.

Premium gas and TC-W3 is definatelly a NO-NO.  The reason is, there is a large amount of detergent additives in TC-W3, as there is also a large amount in premium gasoline.   When you mix that much detergent additives together, they end up diluting the lubricating abilities of the oil itself.  Very bad scene there. If your buddy insists on running premium gas, then tell him to belly up to the bar and be a real man and run the racing synthetic oil to go with it.  Don’t screw around, let’s see how much cash you can really waste. And waste it is, most motors today run just fine on 88 octane fuel. Unless he’s cut the heads and ran the ignition timing way up, premium fuel is just a big expense and can certainly damage that John-O-Ruter he’s running.

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you can really waste. And waste it is, most motors today run just fine on 88 octane fuel. <snip Pat, I’m glad to hear you say that. Shortly after I bought my boat in 95 , Jimmy Houston said to use regular unleaded. They didn’t need premium. My cousin (even after I told him) continued running premium. His motor was rebuilt twice in 3 years ( piston walls scored ). $3500 a pop. Last year he bought a 4 stroke yamaha. Thanks for the info, Steve   — Release em today so they can play again tomorrow. Practice CPR. catch photo release.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Somebody in the group, not too long ago, stated that “TC-W3 and premium fuel was a no-no”. Breaks down the lubricating compounds of the oil. Premium gas and TC-W3 is definatelly a NO-NO.  The reason is, there is a large amount of detergent additives in TC-W3, as there is also a large amount in premium gasoline. When you mix that much detergent additives together, they end up diluting the lubricating abilities of the oil itself.  Very bad scene there. If your buddy insists on running premium gas, then tell him to belly up to the bar and be a real man and run the racing synthetic oil to go with it. Don’t screw around, let’s see how much cash you can really waste. And waste it is, most motors today run just fine on 88 octane fuel. Unless he’s cut the heads and ran the ignition timing way up, premium fuel is just a big expense and can certainly damage that John-O-Ruter he’s running.

Hey Pat , my motor is an 81 model . I’m not sure , but I think the lowest grade available at the time was what the highest grade is today . I’ve been running Amoco 93 with Mercury Quicksilver . What do you think ?     Ripsomelips

Response:

The owners manual that came with a 1992 70 hp. OMC motor that I had said use 87 octane or higher. It said PREMIUM gasoline was specifically encouraged because it may contain additives that would help eliminate carbon buildup. It also said to use TCW-3 oil. The manual for the 1998 OMC 115 hp that I have now only says to use 87 octane or higher. If you want gas that has less detergents, then buy the cheap, no name gas at Walmarts. Mark McCoy <a href=”http://members.aol.com/mmccoy01/index.html”McCoy’s</a  Bumpus Mills, Tennessee

Response:

Paul!! They suggest that you use the middle of the line gas( 89 octane )in a 60hp engine!                                         Abe Watson

I’m running a Johnson 115 now and I’m burning regular. I’ve was told by one mechanic that alot of the carbon problem is caused by the newer fuels that burn cooler. Also, I guess it doesn’t help running at low speeds in cold water ( winter duck hunting ).   My engine is new and my plan is to burn regular fuel (87),  OMC oil, OMC 2+4 (stabil) , and OMC carbon guard.  Time will tell if I’ve made the right decision. -=- Paul -=-

Response:

I was told the same thing by Galaxie Marine in Auburn, CA. I have a ‘91 Johnson GT200 on my 190 DCX Champion and was told to use 89 octane and NEVER use premium. The premium has additives designed for 4-stroke motors and it will harm 2-stroke outboards quickly. I was also told to use Chevron and 76 gas only, Mercury Premium plus TCW3 2-stroke oil, and add 1 oz. per gallon of fuel in the tank in addition to the oil injection if I am going to run it hard. I was also told to use OMC’s Carbon Guard in every other tank full. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Paul!! They suggest that you use the middle of the line gas( 89 octane )in a 60hp engine!                                         Abe Watson I’m running a Johnson 115 now and I’m burning regular. I’ve was told by one mechanic that alot of the carbon problem is caused by the newer fuels that burn cooler. Also, I guess it doesn’t help running at low speeds in cold water ( winter duck hunting ).   My engine is new and my plan is to burn regular fuel (87),  OMC oil, OMC 2+4 (stabil) , and OMC carbon guard.  Time will tell if I’ve made the right decision. -=- Paul -=-

“Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

I think the problem is that every marine dealer and mechanic has a different opinion and none of them know the facts. I was told by my dealer to never run anything BUT premium. Also, one owner’s manual (92 OMC 70) said premium was encouraged and another later manual (98 OMC 115) said only to use 87 or higher octane.

Mark, The reason why the older manual said premium and the newer one said 87 or higher is because the formulation of gas has changed. I was told to run premium in my 45 hp Mariner on my Bass Tracker when I bought it in ‘87, and I am now told to use only the 89 octane as the premium has been reformulated for 4-stroke car/truck engines. With all due respect, if your dealer said to run premium in it with the newer gasolines then he doesn’t know what he is talking about. Mike “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

I think the problem is that every marine dealer and mechanic has a different opinion and none of them know the facts. I was told by my dealer to never run anything BUT premium. Also, one owner’s manual (92 OMC 70) said premium was encouraged and another later manual (98 OMC 115) said only to use 87 or higher octane. I was told the same thing by Galaxie Marine in Auburn, CA. I have a ‘91 Johnson GT200 on my 190 DCX Champion and was told to use 89 octane and NEVER use premium. The premium has additives designed for 4-stroke motors and it will harm 2-stroke outboards quickly. I was also told to use Chevron and 76 gas only, Mercury Premium plus TCW3 2-stroke oil, and add 1 oz. per gallon of fuel in the tank in addition to the oil injection if I am going to run it hard. I was also told to use OMC’s Carbon Guard in every other tank full.

Mark McCoy <a href=”http://members.aol.com/mmccoy01/index.html”McCoy’s</a  Bumpus Mills, Tennessee

Response:

I was told by my dealer to never run anything BUT premium. Also, one owner’s manual (92 OMC 70) said premium was encouraged and another later manual (98 OMC 115) said only to use 87 or higher octane. Mark,

Mike was mostly correct, just left a few “whys” out of the equation. True the gas we’re running now is reformulated from what it used to be.  Mostly there is a lot more detergent in premium than there used to be..this is the problem with your outboard. TCWIII oil has much more detergent additives in it than the TCWII did.  When you combine III with today’s premium gas, it is a “overload” of detergent, which over time will cause bad things.  Stuck rings, and more important, the gas/oil mixture will not stay together properly in the crancase of that two stroke engine, which will lead to major failure. So, to put it simply, DO NOT mix TCWIII oil and premium gas.   Pat

Response:

OK, so why  doesn’t the outboard manufacturers say not to use premium gasoline.  If premium damaged motors, why don’t the outboard manufacturers inform their customers not to use it? My 1998 manual says: Use any regular unleaded, regular leaded, OR PREMIUM UNLEADED automotive gasoline and TCW-3 oil. Mike was mostly correct, just left a few “whys” out of the equation. True the gas we’re running now is reformulated from what it used to be. Mostly there is a lot more detergent in premium than there used to be..this is the problem with your outboard. TCWIII oil has much more detergent additives in it than the TCWII did.  When you combine III with today’s premium gas, it is a “overload” of detergent, which over time will cause bad things.  Stuck rings, and more important, the gas/oil mixture will not stay together properly in the crancase of that two stroke engine, which will lead to major failure.

Mark McCoy <a href=”http://members.aol.com/mmccoy01/index.html”McCoy’s</a  Bumpus Mills, Tennessee

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<< OK, so why  doesn’t the outboard manufacturers say not to use premium gasoline. JOB SECURITY

Response:

I also see where Evinrude has come out with a new oil which contains Carbx, suppost to help protect your engine: http://www.omc-online.com/genuineparts/OIL%20WEBSITE/home.html Wonder if this stuff can be run in pre-mix or standard injection systems or only Evinrude’s with this new FICHT system ? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I was told the same thing by Galaxie Marine in Auburn, CA. I have a ‘91 Johnson GT200 on my 190 DCX Champion and was told to use 89 octane and NEVER use premium. The premium has additives designed for 4-stroke motors and it will harm 2-stroke outboards quickly. I was also told to use Chevron and 76 gas only, Mercury Premium plus TCW3 2-stroke oil, and add 1 oz. per gallon of fuel in the tank in addition to the oil injection if I am going to run it hard. I was also told to use OMC’s Carbon Guard in every other tank full. Mike Paul!! They suggest that you use the middle of the line gas( 89 octane )in a 60hp engine!                                         Abe Watson I’m running a Johnson 115 now and I’m burning regular. I’ve was told by one mechanic that alot of the carbon problem is caused by the newer fuels that burn cooler. Also, I guess it doesn’t help running at low speeds in cold water ( winter duck hunting ).   My engine is new and my plan is to burn regular fuel (87),  OMC oil, OMC 2+4 (stabil) , and OMC carbon guard.  Time will tell if I’ve made the right decision. -=- Paul -=- “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

-=- Paul -=-

Response:

If I can remember, later I will research this issue.  But one of us needs to find the answer.  I was using premium until about a year ago, when my old ‘89 Johnson started to miss.  Pulled the spark plugs and noticed the anodes were pretty well gone.  Changed the spark plugs, switched to regular unleaded gas, and haven’t had a problem since. Where are the mechanics here when you really need them? —    Go Fishing.  And may your fish be as big as your tales.    Columbia, SC  Lake Murray

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I ran a 60 hp Evinrude for many years.  Almost at the same time, a buddy bought a 60 hp Mariner.  I always ran high test Amoco and my friend always ran the cheapest unleaded regular he could find.  After seveal years ( I’m guessing around 5 or 6 ), both of us had engine problems, both turned out to be carbon build-up, both spent well over a grand getting the engines rebuilt.   I sold that rig awhile back and now have a new one.  Any advise for preventing a reoccurence of this problem ?   My dealer recommended I use an OMC fuel additive which I believe is the equivalent to Stabil…which I am using.  Any other comments or advise ? -=- Paul -=-

Response:

Immmmmmmmm connnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnfuzzzzzzed… I have a Merc XR6 150… Have always been told to use nothing but premium.. has that changed or does it make a difference with smaller motors? Help appreciated.       josh

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was told the same thing by Galaxie Marine in Auburn, CA. I have a ‘91 Johnson GT200 on my 190 DCX Champion and was told to use 89 octane and NEVER use premium. The premium has additives designed for 4-stroke motors and it will harm 2-stroke outboards quickly. I was also told to use Chevron and 76 gas only, Mercury Premium plus TCW3 2-stroke oil, and add 1 oz. per gallon of fuel in the tank in addition to the oil injection if I am going to run it hard. I was also told to use OMC’s Carbon Guard in every other tank full. Mike Paul!! They suggest that you use the middle of the line gas( 89 octane )in a 60hp engine!                                         Abe Watson I’m running a Johnson 115 now and I’m burning regular. I’ve was told by one mechanic that alot of the carbon problem is caused by the newer fuels that burn cooler. Also, I guess it doesn’t help running at low speeds in cold water ( winter duck hunting ).   My engine is new and my plan is to burn regular fuel (87),  OMC oil, OMC 2+4 (stabil) , and OMC carbon guard.  Time will tell if I’ve made the right decision. -=- Paul -=- “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Immmmmmmmm connnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnfuzzzzzzed… I have a Merc XR6 150… Have always been told to use nothing but premium.. has that changed or does it make a difference with smaller motors? Help appreciated.

josh I would talk to a couple of good boat mechanics and get their input. I have talked to two different mechanics here in CA who are about 150 miles apart from each other, and who are considered the best outboard mechanics in their areas by numerous customer’s input. They both told me to use 89 octane and to NEVER use 92 octane premium. I am going to take their advice as it would not benefit them in any way to recommend one fuel over another. Maybe gas formulations are different throughout the country? Mike “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

Question:

I give in…bass raide pontoon boat.I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp,bass raide pontoon boat  a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there.

Two of us (humans) went to the west coast in an ‘82 Colt by taking out the back seat and I made a cartop carrier out of a ski rack and some plywood with a polytarp cover. We used camping boxes which were cardboard apple boxes painted to keep them from soaking up rainwater and morning dew. bass raide pontoon boat Two of us (man and dog) camped for a month in the SE USA in the same car. Later we camped in Nova Scotia a month on two separate occasions in an ‘89 Festiva with the back seat and the passenger seat removed and no roof rack. We used camping boxes custom made from thin plywood. One for food, one for bedding, one for clothes, and one for tent stuff (rope, tarp, light, etc.) In all cases the load never came above the level of bass raide pontoon boat the rear window so I had full vision out the back for driving.

Response:

To save space on the trip,bass raide pontoon boat  you could (depending on where you are going) not take much food along, then make a stop near your site at a supermarket. That way you can load up the cooler with your other camping supplies.  At the store, only buy what you’ll use, or what won’t go bad without ice, so you can lug the remainder home. Depending on how far you travel, I’d recommend a rooftop carrier, even one of those soft ones that are just fastened to and rest on the roof like a large duffel bag over the hard ones.  With a trailer, especially the cheaper ones, the wheels are quite small, and without proper maintenance or going too fast driving larger distances you risk bearing problems or a flat tire.bass raide pontoon boat
Look at the more rigid items you take, like the cooler, the chairs, etc. They can waste a lot of space.  Perhaps you can just replace one or two of the worst offenders.  Soft coolers are available, and the new “quad” style folding chairs are better than the older chairs with a complete frame around the seat.  I’ve seen the cheapest of these for less than $10 on sale at Target once or twice a year.  If you must keep the hard items, pack soft stuff like clothing, sleeping bags, etc around them and in them to fill in the wasted space.  Sure, it means you’ve got to take more time loading and unloading, but at least more of it will fit.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

I used to have ur problems. I have 3 kids and only a small car. Packing used to be the hardest part everytime we went camping.  Then one day I bought a clam shell trailer which measured 4 by 6 by 4.  It looks like a gigantic Sears car top carrier.  It is light and easy to toll.  And I only paid $75 for it ))

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

How about something like this: http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr… I’ve seen cheaper ones. Of course you need a receiver hitch. Tyler Hopper

Response:

Hey, Mark! We don’t all camp in the fancy-dancy parks with Coke machines, laundry, or pre-prescribed pooping areas.  Let’s think before we post! PeePee’s on the right track for real “roughing it.” Doug Pull *yourhead* out to return e-mail

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The following is meant for it’s grin content – though it is a bit serious: Ahhh, yes, the all-American car camping family. Well, you should know that there are some necessities of car camping that backing or pack camping people don’t need to take into account. Since I am a pack camper mostly, I do have a fairly decent list that I have been fine tuning over the years… The key is to think ESSENTIALS. What do I absolutely NEED to get through the night? Right – in a camp ground – 1. water (or just a purifier and a large collapsible tank with spigut) All you need is a milk jug or collapsible carrier – the spigot of potable water is nevevr very far away. 2. food (take all food out of original packaging and put into ziplock bags..saves lots of space and weight, and only put in what you need…don’t bring a 5 gallon tub of peanut butter if you only plan to make one peanut butter and jelly sandwich) Duh – make a fiood run to the suprmarket after dropping off the kids – won’t take mor ethan an hour from most camp grounds – or pack one dinner and breakfast then do food while sight seeing the next day. 3. sleeping bag (Coleman makes a very affordable moderate temperature mummy bag that compresses to the size of about 2 basketballs, which is much smaller than a poly blend bag that is bigger than the wheel on yur car, don’t bring pillows…use wadded up sweaters or other clothes) No comment 4. spare change of clothes (with emphasis on extra socks and unmentionables) Laundry at the campground so two days unless someone can’t possibly wear the same look after the third day…. 5. tioletries (don’t skimp on mountain money…you know…toilet paper…if weight is extremely important, you can even take out the cardboard tube inside and fold it in half….ideas that backpackers always use) Don’t need it – campgrond supplies it on the wall in an appropriate space.  Might want a box of kleenes though. 6. stove/fuel/matches (the smaller the stove, the better…also useful to purify water instead of bringing yur own) 2 burner to cook like you do at home (sort of) 7. hand saw/axe for wood (so you don’t bring yur own) Forget it – illegal to cut wood around most private camp grounds, difficult to find at public one’s unless you ar eearly season. 8. flashlight (don’t skimp on a small one…vision is everything at night, and you can’t afford to twist yur ankle and be lost if you can avoid it….lantern isn’t totally necessary as long as yur flashlight has a good bright light) Need lantern to play cards, small flashlight for night calls. 9. tent/tarp (as much as I love to put out a tarp and sleep out under the stars, not everyone likes that…so find a tent that has a built-in ground tarp..saves space) 10. first aid kit (I don’t care how safety-coinscience you *think* you are…accidents always will and do happen…go through the store bought one and build up a supply of bandages and neosporin does wonders!….bring a few whistles, one for everyone, so if you get lost, you use it instead of yelling to save yur voice, since the high pitch of a whistle is more readily heard far away than the relatively low sound of one’s own voice) 11. Y2K bug repellant ;- ) and sunscreen (always bring no matter what…a cool day with no overcast can char you in a heartbeat) 12. spare change for a phonecall or misc emergencies (this is a first aid item, but I brought it out for emphasis) Don’t forget the soda machine, though campground store/office can usually make change. 13. plastic trash bags (for separating dirty laundry from clean…use for waste bags…use as temporary parkas) 14. duct tape (that darn stuff ALWAYS comes in handy…if it’s repairing a tarp tear, or silencing an obnoxious teen, it’s always useful) What would be nice to have if could afford the space? leisure (chairs, books, camera, swim suit), firewood, lantern…etc Actually – is is not nice, it is often required if one wants to go camping with certain otherwise nice partners.  ;-) and as for air mattresses, I am a definite fan, yet I have grown away from them because they are bulky and take away from the outdoor

experience…especially if – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – you bring an air compressor…removing both of these items would free up more and more space for you. I have found the WalMart wound-up hammocks, believe it or not, so be as good as, or better than, an air mattress…just put it up in between 2 trees, and put something soft underneath you in case you toss and turn in yur sleep and could fall out, in which case you’d want the hammock closer to the ground ;- ) They can be quite relaxing and lull you to sleep much faster than the rustling outside and around a tent that you’re in. While I like hammock camping with campgrounds it is: 1. often illegal to tie to trees 2. trees are optional – they get int he way of motor homes 3. aside from modesty issues there ar eindecent exposure laws 4. tough to cuddle in most hammocks 5 I have found that the WAY in which you pack yur vehicle also makes a tremendous difference. If anything is put in haphazardly, then you are indefinitely wasting some space that could be occupied. Don’t underestimate your “precious cargo”…have yur daughters hold onto the sleeping bags and let them use them as pillows…that will save a LOT of space in the trunk. and IF you are car camping and not hiking away from yur car very far with yur gear, then I would recommend using duffle bags instead of packs with metal pole frames…they are costly in taking up space in yur trunk because of their shape. Most car campers don’t even own frame packs. Carry that gear ??? It’s got to be 50  (10 really) feet to the tent!  Dyu think I’m some kind of pack mule?! There are all kinds of tricks, and these are but the essential ones to remember…if you still find trouble in making it all fit, then perhaps you could email me a list of what all you have, and I’m sure I can help you make it all work out!!! Good luck and stick to the trails – it is really a different world.  I bet you don’t even carry a hair drier.  ;-) Good luck and happy trails on your camping adventures!!! Clint Johns Eagle Scout California snip Have fun just use the right gear for the intended trip. M

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Hi a few tips to fit your stuff into the car. Don’t roll up the sleeping bags just lay them out on the seat flat Find or buy wood at the campsite. Sell the big tent and invest in some dome tents. Coolers take up space try a smaller one or no cooler at all. I use a powdered drink mix and add to water no sodas needed. Clothing is a tuff one I camp in Florida so I need few warm clothes. My advice for clothing is one spare set per person. My preference is to use a camp stove but you could cook over the fire. You could omit the lantern and use glow sticks and a small flashlight. You can buy glow sticks at Kmart Wal-Mart etc. A luggage rack on top of the car will help. When you buy camping equipment think small. After a camp trip look at what you have and think did I use that? Did I need that?

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

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Thank for all the replies. Thinking small when buying stuff would be great if I didn’t already have the stuff!  We had a van when I was assembling the things.  Rebuying is not an option. We have so little money now that even paying for the camping areas is alot for us.  Leaving some of the things behind (like the chairs) is not what I want to do at my very close to 50 years of age.  It’s just not fun to sit on the ground for an extended time period like it used to be when I was in my twenties.  But thanks for the ideas. I think the small trailer idea is the thing to do.  I’ll look in the want ads to see if anyone is selling one cheap. Or that Home Depot kit sounds very interesting. Thanks so much for the help.

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Most ‘enthusiasts’ I know would chant “lighten your load!” a million times … but … it’s just preference <G.  My dad is a devout HEAVY CAR CAMPER.  They have a small boat trailer that they’ve rigged to hold their canoe upside-down (PFD’s etc. strapped securely inside).  Underneath the canoe on the trailer, dad’s put a wooden box (probably 2′Hx4′Wx3′L — he built it, I think, from scrap lumber) with a latched lid.  The box serves not only as hauling space for their stuff, but also as storage space between trips — it’s called “the camping box” & they KNOW that the cooksets, fuel cylinders, sleeping mats, sleeping bags, etc. are all packed well in that box, so that when the urge for a trip strikes, they just need to do a quick look-over & can take off right away.  Don’t know how a Saturn would handle towing the little trailer … they’ve got some old clunky Oldsmobile type, & probably aren’t much afraid to hurt it anymore. — Danica in IL

Response:

Ahhh, yes, the all-American car camping family. Well, you should know that there are some necessities of car camping that backing or pack camping people don’t need to take into account. Since I am a pack camper mostly, I do have a fairly decent list that I have been fine tuning over the years… The key is to think ESSENTIALS. What do I absolutely NEED to get through the night? 1. water (or just a purifier and a large collapsible tank with spigut) 2. food (take all food out of original packaging and put into ziplock bags..saves lots of space and weight, and only put in what you need…don’t bring a 5 gallon tub of peanut butter if you only plan to make one peanut butter and jelly sandwich) 3. sleeping bag (Coleman makes a very affordable moderate temperature mummy bag that compresses to the size of about 2 basketballs, which is much smaller than a poly blend bag that is bigger than the wheel on yur car, don’t bring pillows…use wadded up sweaters or other clothes) 4. spare change of clothes (with emphasis on extra socks and unmentionables) 5. tioletries (don’t skimp on mountain money…you know…toilet paper…if weight is extremely important, you can even take out the cardboard tube inside and fold it in half….ideas that backpackers always use) 6. stove/fuel/matches (the smaller the stove, the better…also useful to purify water instead of bringing yur own) 7. hand saw/axe for wood (so you don’t bring yur own) 8. flashlight (don’t skimp on a small one…vision is everything at night, and you can’t afford to twist yur ankle and be lost if you can avoid it….lantern isn’t totally necessary as long as yur flashlight has a good bright light) 9. tent/tarp (as much as I love to put out a tarp and sleep out under the stars, not everyone likes that…so find a tent that has a built-in ground tarp..saves space) 10. first aid kit (I don’t care how safety-coinscience you *think* you are…accidents always will and do happen…go through the store bought one and build up a supply of bandages and neosporin does wonders!….bring a few whistles, one for everyone, so if you get lost, you use it instead of yelling to save yur voice, since the high pitch of a whistle is more readily heard far away than the relatively low sound of one’s own voice) 11. Y2K bug repellant ;- ) and sunscreen (always bring no matter what…a cool day with no overcast can char you in a heartbeat) 12. spare change for a phonecall or misc emergencies (this is a first aid item, but I brought it out for emphasis) 13. plastic trash bags (for separating dirty laundry from clean…use for waste bags…use as temporary parkas) 14. duct tape (that darn stuff ALWAYS comes in handy…if it’s repairing a tarp tear, or silencing an obnoxious teen, it’s always useful) What would be nice to have if could afford the space? leisure (chairs, books, camera, swim suit), firewood, lantern…etc and as for air mattresses, I am a definite fan, yet I have grown away from them because they are bulky and take away from the outdoor experience…especially if you bring an air compressor…removing both of these items would free up more and more space for you. I have found the WalMart wound-up hammocks, believe it or not, so be as good as, or better than, an air mattress…just put it up in between 2 trees, and put something soft underneath you in case you toss and turn in yur sleep and could fall out, in which case you’d want the hammock closer to the ground ;- ) They can be quite relaxing and lull you to sleep much faster than the rustling outside and around a tent that you’re in. I have found that the WAY in which you pack yur vehicle also makes a tremendous difference. If anything is put in haphazardly, then you are indefinitely wasting some space that could be occupied. Don’t underestimate your “precious cargo”…have yur daughters hold onto the sleeping bags and let them use them as pillows…that will save a LOT of space in the trunk. and IF you are car camping and not hiking away from yur car very far with yur gear, then I would recommend using duffle bags instead of packs with metal pole frames…they are costly in taking up space in yur trunk because of their shape. There are all kinds of tricks, and these are but the essential ones to remember…if you still find trouble in making it all fit, then perhaps you could email me a list of what all you have, and I’m sure I can help you make it all work out!!! Good luck and happy trails on your camping adventures!!! Clint Johns Eagle Scout California – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi a few tips to fit your stuff into the car. Don’t roll up the sleeping bags just lay them out on the seat flat Find or buy wood at the campsite. Sell the big tent and invest in some dome tents. Coolers take up space try a smaller one or no cooler at all. I use a powdered drink mix and add to water no sodas needed. Clothing is a tuff one I camp in Florida so I need few warm clothes. My advice for clothing is one spare set per person. My preference is to use a camp stove but you could cook over the fire. You could omit the lantern and use glow sticks and a small flashlight. You can buy glow sticks at Kmart Wal-Mart etc. A luggage rack on top of the car will help. When you buy camping equipment think small. After a camp trip look at what you have and think did I use that? Did I need that? I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

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We’ve used the car top “animal carrier” thingies and amazingly not gotten that much problem with our mileage.  May be because I don’t entirely trust them and stay within a little closer range of the speed limit?

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One day, after a Dutch oven seminar, I was loading my tent, Dutch ovens, tables, tarps, flys, stove, chairs, mattress, sleeping bag, etc. etc. into the back of my little car. I had the back seat folded down and the front passenger seat was full of stuff. Some guy came up to me and said, “Damn! That is the smallest pickup truck I have ever seen!”

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I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.         <…. How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it?

A luggage pod on the roof might help.  FWIW, we have the largest luggage pod made by Packasport mounted on top of our minivan.  On one occasion, we had it loaded with 2 Dahon folding bicycles, a tent (~8′ x 12′), screen house, 2 sleeping bags, 3 folding camp stools, 2 folding camp chairs (with backs), a roll-up camp table, several tarps, plus a bunch of miscellaneous stuff. These things are a little pricey, but might very well make the difference between insufficient cargo space and adequate cargo space. We chose a Packasport pod because it was the largest available, most sturdy construction, completely weatherproof, and very aerodynamic (low air drag).  Yakima and Thule also make luggage pods which are reasonably streamlined.           http://www.packasport.com/         http://www.yakima.com/         http://www.thule.com/ There are other similar things.  I’ve also seen some big fat tall luggage pods (Sears?) which look like they would have a lot of wind resistance, but are somewhat cheaper.  There are also some cloth things (canvas? nylon?) which are advertised to be like a backpack for your car.         — Gerry

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.         <…. How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? A luggage pod on the roof might help.  FWIW, we have the largest luggage pod made by Packasport mounted on top of our minivan.  On one occasion, we had it loaded with 2 Dahon folding bicycles, a tent (~8′ x 12′), screen house, 2 sleeping bags, 3 folding camp stools, 2 folding camp chairs (with backs), a roll-up camp table, several tarps, plus a bunch of miscellaneous stuff. These things are a little pricey, but might very well make the difference between insufficient cargo space and adequate cargo space. We chose a Packasport pod because it was the largest available, most sturdy construction, completely weatherproof, and very aerodynamic (low air drag).  Yakima and Thule also make luggage pods which are reasonably streamlined.         http://www.packasport.com/         http://www.yakima.com/         http://www.thule.com/ There are other similar things.  I’ve also seen some big fat tall luggage pods (Sears?) which look like they would have a lot of wind resistance, but are somewhat cheaper.  There are also some cloth things (canvas? nylon?) which are advertised to be like a backpack for your car.

The Sears luggage pods aren’t bad, though they’re not real heavy duty. You may have to buy special hooks to fit your Saturn if it doesn’t have gutters (the ones Ive seen don’t have ‘em). IIRC our Tercel mileage went from about 39 mpg to about 35-36 with the Sears carrier. Like everyone else has said, think backpacking when you choose equipment. Get a compact nylon tent for starters, quality sleeping bags that will compress, and make sure everyone travels light. Coleman propane stoves are more compact than the white gas stoves, and backpacking stoves are even smaller. Minimag flashlights are smaller than D-Cell lights. For a campground light, get a small electric light. Gotta go–packing for a camping trip. — Pat O’Connell Take nothing but pictures, Leave nothing but footprints, Kill nothing but vandals…

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I had this exact problem a couple of years ago. I was a happy owner of a Saturn, but had the same problem. I bought a receiver hitch for it from Saturn (about $100 back in ‘95) and a small utility trailer. As you know, the Saturns can’t tow much. The receiver hitch was great ’cause I had a bike rack for it. Never did use the trailer (wasn’t supposed to go over 40mph with it). Finally broke down and sold both the trailer and the Saturn. I bought a Ranger with tow package and a small pop-up for the same monthly payment I was making on the Saturn. I did have to extend the payments out a bunch though. I now can camp to my hearts content with everything I need. The pop-up is great for convenience although I find all I do is sleep in it. I am now going to try to  sell the pop-up and go back to tent (with cushy cots ) so that I can tow a boat.

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

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Way back, we had a VW beetle, with a roof rack.  Later we added a tiny trailer from Sears Roebuck.  We didn’t even realize we were suffering. Ol’ Bab – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

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When we tent camped with 4-5 kids we packed everything in a station wagon, secured tent and other gear on roof rack. Did this for about 5 years (limited distance and lentgth trips) by the time our sixth child came along we decided we needed a utility trailer. . before we knew it we were the proud owners of a popup camper. Best investment we ever made…until we retired and bought our 24′ MH. 8~)   Now I smile when  I  see a similar rig and family pull into the CG. BTW; Now two daughters have MHs, One daughter and one son popups we all STILL enjoy the outdoors but with more comfort these days . Digger AKA Grumps (old and crusty) Y2K  COMPLACENT

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actually, just the PFD’s were strapped to the seats of the canoes….hard to fill when they’re upside down on the roof…. yes, smaller stuff is good to have….more pricey, but still cheaper than a bigger car, or renting a trailer in the long run…and well worth it too…good quality sleeping bags are much more comfortable then cheap ones… you could also look into getting one of those roof thingies…not sure what they’re called, but they just look like big animal carriers that you stick on the roof of your car….i bet it kills your mileage though….. james – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Let me guess, the canoes were filled. It’s all a matter of perspective, relative to your comfort level.  An RV camper might have difficulty fitting in a van.  I’m always humbled by people taking camping trips on motorcycles.  Last year I saw a family of 3 doing a cross-country camping trip in a Geo Metro.  Learn to think like a backpacker. How much of that stuff do you need to survive?  Not the chairs for sure.  Find the smallest incarnation of each piece of equipment, and buy it. Cheap sleeping bags are real space hogs.  Find some compessible models. Without replacing equipment your choices are limited, trailer or roof rack. I’m a pretty compact camper, but I would have trouble with your load. if you don’t mind being a little uncomfortable while driving, then it should be no problem….most i’ve done is 6 people (aged 20-23), 2 canoes (6 life jackets, 6 paddles), 6 packs, all in a cavelier…if there’s a will, there’s a way….looked really funny, but hey, that’s what memories are made of…. james I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

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Let me guess, the canoes were filled. It’s all a matter of perspective, relative to your comfort level.  An RV camper might have difficulty fitting in a van.  I’m always humbled by people taking camping trips on motorcycles.  Last year I saw a family of 3 doing a cross-country camping trip in a Geo Metro.  Learn to think like a backpacker. How much of that stuff do you need to survive?  Not the chairs for sure.  Find the smallest incarnation of each piece of equipment, and buy it. Cheap sleeping bags are real space hogs.  Find some compessible models. Without replacing equipment your choices are limited, trailer or roof rack. I’m a pretty compact camper, but I would have trouble with your load. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – if you don’t mind being a little uncomfortable while driving, then it should be no problem….most i’ve done is 6 people (aged 20-23), 2 canoes (6 life jackets, 6 paddles), 6 packs, all in a cavelier…if there’s a will, there’s a way….looked really funny, but hey, that’s what memories are made of…. james I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

Response:

I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

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Have you given any thought to a trailer? maybe rent one from U-HAUL to try it out first. I used to get all our stuff in my honda accord…but everyone else had to follow in another car.  Wen we got a boat (bass tracker) I towed it behind the honda and could get more stuff packed in the boat.  It wasn’t good for the honda tho. I now have a full size truck, a quad cab. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

Competition brings out the best in products and the worst in people.–David Sarnoff  Don’t be reckless with other people’s hearts.  Don’t put up with people who are reckless with yours

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if you don’t mind being a little uncomfortable while driving, then it should be no problem….most i’ve done is 6 people (aged 20-23), 2 canoes (6 life jackets, 6 paddles), 6 packs, all in a cavelier…if there’s a will, there’s a way….looked really funny, but hey, that’s what memories are made of…. james – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I give in….I just can’t fit into a small car with our camping gear.  I barely could fit it all in a van!  Now what? Just the tent and sleeping bags and our car is FULL. (A little Saturn). How do you experienced campers who like a bit of comfort do it? At minimum, we have a LARGE tent, air mattresses, sleeping bags, 4 collapsible chairs, cold food, dry food, lantern, Coleman stove, fuel cylinders, a tarp, a little fire wood to save on the big bucks near camping areas, clothes and toiletries for a family of four -including two teenage girls so you KNOW we need a few extras, and other usual things like paper products and flashlights, etc).  The only thing I can think of to do without is the wood and buy it there. I don’t have the money to invest in anything too costly.  Should I look into some sort of car top carrier (I have no luggage racks on the car presently) or a pull-behind trailer…..and how cheap can I get away with either of these options.  Any suggestions for where I can buy whatever you think I should try? I’d hate to think we can’t go camping just because of transportation.  (We used to have a van which has since bit the dust.) Help!

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